South Coast - Cambodia - page 369

SINS OF COMMISSION, SINS OF OMISSION
At Sihanoukville's main bus station, only members of the official ' motodup association' (read: cartel)
are allowed to pick up arriving passengers (independent drivers sent to fetch someone must show their
charge's name). As a result, you may be quoted inflated prices for onward local transport. Bargaining
is likely to be futile - if you don't agree to the set price (usually 8000r to the beaches) no one else will
take you. You can try walking out to the street, but there's not a whole lot of traffic in this part of
town. You may also have trouble shaking the possibly persistent driver the cartel has assigned you ac-
cording to a rotation system. Confrontations between independents and cartel drivers sometimes de-
velop. The situation with remorks - ideal for travel with a big pack - is similar. The set price for
remorks to the Serendipity area is US$6.
Many guesthouses pay US$2 to moto drivers who bring them customers, but some places pay
drivers far higher sums - US$4 or even US$5 - to send custom their way, so if you've just arrived,
getting your moto guy to take you where you want may turn into a battle of wills. If your chosen
hostelry is one that won't pay up, don't be surprised to hear that it's closed, has contaminated water or
is 'full of prostitutes'.
AIR
Temple-beach combo holidays are now possible thanks to daily direct flights between
Siem Reap and Sihanoukville (US$105 one way) with Cambodia Angkor Airlines
( www.cambodiaangkorair.com ) . New routes are under discussion, including direct links with
Thailand and Vietnam.
The airport is 15km east of town, just off the NH4. Figure on US$5/10 for a one-way
moto / remork .
BOAT
Sihanoukville is the gateway to Cambodia's booming offshore islands. For more details
on boat services to the various islands, Click here .
BUS
All of the major bus companies have frequent connections with Phnom Penh (US$3.75 to
US$6, four hours) from early morning until at least 2pm, after which trips are sporadic.
The cheapest is Capitol Tour. Virak Buntham runs the last trip at 8.30pm. Giant Ibis
( www.giantibis.com ; US$10) runs a 'luxury' service, complete with hostess and wi-fi.
Bookings made through hotels and travel agencies incur a commission. Most travel
agents only work with two or three bus companies, so ask around if you need to leave at a
different time from what's being offered.