Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Moto drivers are likely to want about US$20 or more to bring you out here, and rented
cars will hit passengers with a surcharge, more than double the going rate for Angkor; for-
get coming by remork as the hill climb is just too tough. With the long journey here, it is
best to plan on spending the best part of a day exploring, although it can be combined
with either Banteay Srei or Beng Mealea.
THE LOST CITY OF MAHENDRAPRAVARTA
Phnom Kulen hit the headlines in 2013 thanks to the 'discovery' of a lost city known as Ma-
hendrapravarta in Angkorian times. Using ground-piercing LIDAR radar technology, the structures of
a more extensive archaeological site have been unveiled beneath the jungle canopy and earth.
However, it wasn't quite as dramatic a discovery as initially reported, as Phnom Kulen had long been
known as an important archaeological site. The LIDAR research confirmed the size and scale of the
ancient city, complete with canals and barays, in the same way NASA satellite imagery had helped
identify the size and scale of the greater Angkor hydraulic water system more than a decade ago.
Some new temples and features were identified beneath the jungle, but remain remote and inaccess-
ible due to terrain and the possibility of landmines.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Beng Mealea
One of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, Beng Mealea (admission US$5) is a spectacu-
lar sight to behold as nature has well and truly run riot. Built to the same floor plan as
Angkor Wat, this titanic temple is Angkor's ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in
the 12th century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat
measuring 1.2km by 900m, part of which is now dried up.
The temple used to be utterly consumed by jungle, but some of the dense foliage has
been cut back and cleaned up in recent years. Entering from the south, visitors wend their
way over piles of finely chiselled sandstone blocks, through long, dark chambers and
between hanging vines. The central tower has completely collapsed, but hidden away
among the rubble and foliage are several impressive carvings, as well as a well-preserved
library in the northeastern quadrant. The temple is a special place and it is worth taking
the time to explore it thoroughly - apsara caretakers can show you where rock-hopping
and climbing is permitted. The large wooden walkway to and around the centre was ori-
ginally constructed for the filming of Jean-Jacques Annaud's Two Brothers (2004), set in
 
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