Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
visitor, an ambitious fee compared with what you get for your money at Angkor. Very
little of the toll goes towards preserving the site.
The road winds its way through some spectacular jungle scenery, emerging on the plat-
eau after a 20km ascent. The road eventually splits: the left fork leads to the picnic spot,
waterfalls and ruins of a 9th-century temple; the right fork continues over a bridge and
some riverbed carvings to the reclining Buddha. This is the focal point of a pilgrimage
here for Khmer people, so it is important to take off your shoes and any head covering be-
fore climbing the stairs to the sanctuary. The views from the 487m peak are tremendous,
as you can see right across the forested plateau.
The waterfall is an attractive spot but would be much more beautiful if not for all the
litter left here by families picnicking at the weekend. Near the top of the waterfall is a
jungle-clad temple known as
Prasat Krau Romeas
, dating from the 9th century.
There are plenty of other Angkorian sites on Phnom Kulen, including as many as 20
minor temples around the plateau, the most important of which is
Prasat Rong Chen
, the
first pyramid or temple-mountain to be constructed in the Angkor area. Most impressive
of all are the giant stone animals or guardians of the mountain, known as
Sra Damrei
(Elephant Pond). These are very difficult to get to, with the trail impassable in the wet sea-
son. The few people who make it, however, are rewarded with a life-size replica of a stone
elephant - a full 4m long and 3m tall - and smaller statues of lions, a frog and a cow.
These were constructed on the southern face of the mountain and from here there are
spectacular views across the plains below. Getting to Sra Damrei requires taking a
moto
from Wat Preah Ang Thom for about 12km on very rough trails through thick forest be-
fore arriving at a sheer rock face. From here it is a 1km walk to the animals through the
forest. Don't try to find it on your own; expect to pay the
moto
driver about US$8 to
US$10 (with some hard negotiating) and carry plenty of water.
Phnom Kulen is a huge plateau around 50km from Siem Reap and about 15km from
Banteay Srei. To get here on the new toll road, take the well-signposted right fork just be-
fore Banteay Srei village and go straight ahead at the crossroads. Just before the road
starts to climb the mountain, there is a barrier and it is here that the US$20 charge is
levied. It is possible to buy a cheaper entrance ticket to Phnom Kulen for US$12 from the
City Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap. It is only possible to go up Phnom Kulen before 11am
and only possible to come down after midday, to avoid vehicles meeting on the narrow
road. There are plenty of small restaurants and food stalls located near the waterfall or in
the small village near Wat Preah Ang Thom.
