Temples of Angkor - Cambodia - page 297

pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving seen anywhere on Earth. It is
one of the smallest sites at Angkor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature. It is
wonderfully well preserved and many of its carvings are three-dimensional. Banteay Srei
means 'Citadel of the Women' and it is said that it must have been built by a woman, as
the elaborate carvings are supposedly too fine for the hand of a man.
Construction on Banteay Srei began in AD 967 and it is one of the few temples around
Angkor to be commissioned not by a king but by a brahman, who may have been a tutor
to Jayavarman V. The temple is square and has entrances at the east and west, the east ap-
proached by a causeway. Of interest are the lavishly decorated libraries and the three cent-
ral towers, which are decorated with male and female divinities and beautiful filigree re-
lief work.
Classic carvings at Banteay Srei include delicate women with lotus flowers in hand and
traditional skirts clearly visible, as well as breathtaking recreations of scenes from the epic
Ramayana adorning the library pediments (carved inlays above a lintel). However, the
sum of the parts is no greater than the whole - almost every inch of these interior build-
ings is covered in decoration. Standing watch over such perfect creations are the mythical
guardians, all of which are copies of originals stored in the National Museum.
Banteay Srei was the first major temple restoration undertaken by the EFEO in 1930
using the anastylosis method. The project, as evidenced today, was a major success and
soon led to other larger projects such as the restoration of Bayon. Banteay Srei is also the
first to have been given a full makeover in terms of facilities, with a large car park, a des-
ignated dining and shopping area, clear visitor information and a state-of-the-art exhibi-
tion on the history of the temple and its restoration.
When Banteay Srei was first rediscovered, it was assumed to be from the 13th or 14th
centuries, as it was thought that the refined carving must have come at the end of the
Angkor period. It was later dated to AD 967, from inscriptions found at the site.
In 1923 Frenchman André Malraux was arrested in Phnom Penh for attempting to steal
several of Banteay Srei's major statues and pieces of sculpture. Ironically, Malraux was
later appointed Minister of Culture under Charles de Gaulle.
Banteay Srei is 21km northeast of Bayon or about 32km from Siem Reap. It is well
signposted and the road is surfaced all the way - a trip from Siem Reap should take about
45 minutes. Moto and remork drivers will want a bit of extra cash to come out here, so
agree on a sum first. It is possible to combine a visit to Banteay Srei as part of a long day