Temples of Angkor - Cambodia - page 291

tain with the uppermost of the three tiers carrying five lotus towers. The brick sanctuaries
were also once decorated with a plaster coating, fragments of which still remain on the
southwestern tower; there are some amazingly detailed lintel carvings here. Several of the
outermost eastern towers are perilously close to collapse and are propped up by an army
of wooden supports.
Pre Rup means 'Turning the Body' and refers to a traditional method of cremation in
which a corpse's outline is traced in the cinders, first in one direction and then in the oth-
er; this suggests that the temple may have served as an early royal crematorium.
Pre Rup is one of the most popular sunset spots around Angkor, as the view over the
surrounding rice fields of the Eastern Baray was beautiful, although some lofty trees have
rather obscured it these days. It also gets pretty crowded.
HIDDEN RICHES, POLITICAL HITCHES
Angkor Conservation is a Ministry of Culture compound on the banks of the Siem Reap River, about
400m east of the Sofitel Phokheetra Royal Angkor Hotel. The compound houses more than 5000
statues, lingas (phallic symbols) and inscribed stelae, stored here to protect them from the wanton
looting that has blighted hundreds of sites around Angkor. The finest statuary is hidden away inside
Angkor Conservation's warehouses, meticulously numbered and catalogued. Unfortunately, without
the right contacts, trying to get a peek at the statues is a lost cause. Some of the statuary is on public
display in the Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap, but it is only a fraction of the collection.
Formerly housed at Angkor Conservation, but now going it alone in an impressive headquarters on
one of the main roads to Angkor, is Apsara Authority (Authority for Protection & Management of
Angkor & the Region of Siem Reap; www.autoriteapsara.org ) . This organisation is responsible for the
research, protection and conservation of cultural heritage around Angkor, as well as urban planning in
Siem Reap and tourism development in the region. It's quite a mandate and quite a challenge - espe-
cially now that the government is taking such a keen interest in its work. Angkor is a money-spinner;
it remains to be seen whether Apsara will be empowered to put preservation before profits.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Banteay Samré
Banteay Samré OFFLINE MAP dates from the same period as Angkor Wat and was built by
Suryavarman II. The temple is in a fairly healthy state of preservation due to some extens-
ive renovation work, although its isolation has resulted in some looting during the past
few decades. The area consists of a central temple with four wings, preceded by a hall and
also accompanied by two libraries, the southern one remarkably well preserved. The