Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
evated causeway leading to Baphuon for an incredible view of the hundreds of pillars sup-
porting it.
In its heyday, Baphuon would have been one of the most spectacular of Angkor's
temples. Located 200m northwest of Bayon, it's a pyramidal representation of mythical
Mt Meru. Construction probably began under Suryavarman I and was later completed by
Udayadityavarman II. It marked the centre of the capital that existed before the construc-
tion of Angkor Thom.
THE RECLINING
BUDDHA OF BAPHUON
On the western side of Baphuon, the retaining wall of the second level was fashioned - apparently in
the 15th or 16th century - into a reclining Buddha about 60m in length. The unfinished figure is diffi-
cult to make out, but the head is on the northern side of the wall and the gate is where the hips should
be; to the left of the gate protrudes an arm. When it comes to the legs and feet - the latter are entirely
gone - imagination must suffice. This huge project, undertaken by the Buddhist faithful 500 years
ago, reinforces the notion that Angkor was never entirely abandoned.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Royal Enclosure & Phimeanakas
Phimeanakas stands close to the centre of a walled area that once housed the royal palace.
There's very little left of the palace today except for two sandstone pools near the northern
wall. Once the site of royal ablutions, these are now used as swimming holes by local
children. The royal enclosure is fronted to the east by the Terrace of Elephants. Construc-
tion of the palace began under Rajendravarman II, although it was used by Jayavarman V
and Udayadityavarman I. It was later added to and embellished by Jayavarman VII and
his successors.
Phimeanakas means 'Celestial Palace', and some scholars say that it was once topped
by a golden spire. Today it only hints at its former splendour and looks a little worse for
wear. The temple is another pyramidal representation of Mt Meru, with three levels. Most
of the decorative features are broken or have disappeared. Still, it is worth clambering up
to the second and third levels for good views of Baphuon.
