Kauai - Hawaii with Kids - page 393

Permits, which are $5 per night, are available through the State Parks Office,
3060 Eiwa St., Lihue, HI 96766 ( & 808/274-3445; www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/
kauai.html). You're limited to 5 nights in any 30-day period. To reach the park
from Lihue, take Highway 50 west to Barking Sands Pacific Missile Range. Bear
right onto the paved road, which heads toward the mountains. There will be
small signs directing you to Polihale; the second sign will point to a left turn
onto a dirt road. Follow this for about 5 miles; at the fork in the road, the camp-
grounds are to the left and the beach park is to the right.
The North Shore
NA PALI COAST STATE PARK Simply put, the Na Pali Coast is the most
beautiful part of the Hawaiian Islands. Hanging valleys open like green-velvet
accordions, and waterfalls tumble to the sea from the 4,120-foot-high cliffs; the
experience is both exhilarating and humbling. Whether you hike in, fly over, or
take a boat cruise past, be sure to see this park.
Established in 1984, Na Pali Coast State Park takes in a 22-mile stretch of
fluted cliffs that wrap around the northwest shore of Kauai between Kee Beach
and Polihale State Park. Volcanic in origin, carved by wind and sea, “the cliffs”
( na pali in Hawaiian), which heaved out of the ocean floor 200 million years
ago, stand as constant reminders of majesty and endurance. Four major val-
leys—Kalalau, Honopu, Awaawapuhi, and Nualolo—crease the cliffs.
Unless you boat or fly in (see “Boating” above; or “Helicopter Rides over
Waimea Canyon & the Na Pali Coast,” on p. 375), the park is accessible only
on foot—and it's not easy. An ancient footpath, the Kalalau Trail, winds
through this remote, spectacular, 6,500-acre park, ultimately leading to Kalalau
Valley. Of all the green valleys in Hawaii, and there are many, only Kalalau is a
true wilderness—probably the last wild valley in the islands. No road goes here,
and none ever will. The remote valley is home to long-plumed tropical birds,
golden monarch butterflies, and many of Kauai's 120 rare and endangered
species of plants. The hike into the Kalalau Valley is grueling and takes most
people 6 to 8 hours one-way.
Despite its inaccessibility, this journey into Hawaii's wilderness has become
increasingly popular since the 1970s. Overrun with hikers, helicopters, and
boaters, the Kalalau Valley was in grave danger of being loved to death. Strict
rules about access have been adopted. The park is now open to hikers and
campers only on a limited basis, and you must have a permit (though you can
hike the first 2 miles, to Hanakapiai Beach, without a permit). Permits are $10
per night and are issued in person at the Kauai State Parks Office, 3060 Eiwa
St., Room 306, Lihue, HI 96766 ( & 808/274-3445; www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/
dsp/kauai.html). You can also request one by writing Kauai Division of State
Parks, at the address above. For more information, contact Hawaii State
Department of Land and Natural Resources, 1151 Punchbowl St., Room
130, Honolulu, HI 96813 ( & 808/587-0320 ).
HIKING THE KALALAU TRAIL The trail head is at Kee Beach, at the
end of Highway 560. Even if you only go as far as Hanakapiai, bring water. Hik-
ing the Kalalau is the most difficult and challenging hike in Hawaii, and one
you'll never forget. Even the Sierra Club rates the 22-mile round-trip into
Kalalau Valley and back as “strenuous”—this is serious backpacking.
The first 2 miles of the hike will take you to Hanakapiai Beach. Do not
attempt this hike unless you have adequate footwear (closed-toe shoes at least;
hiking shoes are best), water, a sun visor, insect repellent, and adequate hiking
clothes (shorts and T-shirt are fine, your bikini is not) Your kids must be able to