Molokai - Hawaii with Kids - page 323

ancient population. It took something like a thousand people to tend a single
fishpond, and more than 60 ponds once existed on this coast. All the fishponds
are named; a few are privately owned. Some are silted in by red-dirt runoff from
south coast gulches; others have been revived by folks who raise fish and seaweed.
The largest, 54-acre Keawa Nui Pond, is surrounded by a 3-foot-high,
2,000-foot-long stone wall. Alii Fish Pond, reserved for kings, is visible through
the coconut groves at One Alii Beach Park (p. 324). From the road, you can see
Kalokoeli Pond, 6 miles east of Kaunakakai on the highway.
HALAWA VALLEY
Of the five great valleys of Molokai, only Halawa, with its two waterfalls, golden
beach, sleepy lagoon, great surf, and offshore island, is easily accessible. Unfor-
tunately, the trail through fertile Halawa Valley (which was inhabited for cen-
turies) and on to the 250-foot Moaula Falls has been closed for some time. There
is one operator who conducts hikes to the falls; see “Halawa Valley: A Hike Back
in History,” below.
You can spend a day at the county beach park (described under “Beaches,”
below), but do not venture into the valley on your own. In a kind of 21st-century

Moments

Halawa Valley: A Hike Back in History

“There are things on Molokai, sacred things, that you may not be able
to see or may not hear, but they are there,” said Pilipo Solotario, who
was born and raised in Halawa Valley, and survived the 1946 tsunami
that barreled into the ancient valley. “As Hawaiians, we respect these
things.”
If people are going to “like Molokai,” Solotario feels it is important
that they learn about the history and culture that are parts of the
secret of appreciating the island, he said.
“I see my role, and I'm 65 years old, as educating people, outsiders
on our culture, our history,” he said at the beginning of one of his cul-
tural hikes into his family property in Halawa Valley. “To really appre-
ciate Molokai you need to understand and know things so that you are
pono, you are right with the land and don't disrespect the culture.
Then, then you see the real Molokai.”
Solotario, and his family, who own the land in the valley, are the
only people allowed to hike into Halawa. They lead daily tours, great
for the family from ages 8 and above, which begin at the County Park
pavilion with a history of the valley, a discussion of Hawaiian culture,
and a display of the fruits, trees, and other flora you will be seeing in
the valley. As you hike through the valley, Solotario stops to point out
historical and cultural aspects, including chanting in Hawaiian before
entering a sacred heiau. At the falls, after another brief chant, visitors
can swim in the brisk waters of the waterfall. The cost of the 4-hour
tour is $85. Contact The Lodge at Molokai Ranch ( & 888/627-8082 or
808/660-2824; www.molokai-ranch.com). Bring insect repellent, water,
a snack, and a swimsuit. Don't forget your camera.
Note that if you venture away from the county park into the valley
on your own, you are trespassing and can be prosecuted.