Maui - Hawaii with Kids - page 284

now: There are more than seven pools—about 24, actually—and all water in
Hawaii is considered sacred. It's all a PR campaign that has spun out of control.
Folks here call it by its rightful name, Oheo Gulch , and visitors some-
times refer to it as Kipahulu, which is actually the name of the area where Oheo
Gulch is located. No matter what you call it, it's beautiful. This dazzling series
of pools and cataracts is so popular that it has its own roadside parking lot. Pack
a picnic lunch and plan to spend a day hiking, swimming, and lazing around.
From the ranger station, it's just a short hike above the famous Oheo Gulch
to two spectacular waterfalls. Check with park rangers before hiking up to or
swimming in the pools, and always keep an eye on the water in the streams. The
sky can be sunny near the coast, but flood waters travel 6 miles down from the
Kipahulu Valley, and the water level can rise 4 feet in less than 10 minutes. It's
not a good idea to swim in the pools in winter. The hike could be strenuous for
kids under 10.
Makahiku Falls is easily reached from the central parking area; the trail head
begins near the ranger station. Pipiwai Trail leads up to the road and beyond
for a half-mile to the overlook. If you hike another 1.5 miles up the trail across
two bridges and through a bamboo forest, you reach Waimoku Falls. It's a hard
uphill hike, but press on to avoid the pool's crowd.
ACCESS POINTS Even though Oheo is part of Haleakala National Park, you
cannot drive here from the summit. Oheo is about 30 to 50 minutes beyond
Hana town, along Highway 31. The admission fee to enter is $5 per person or
$10 per car. The Highway 31 bridge crosses some of the pools near the ocean;
the others, plus magnificent 400-foot Waimoku Falls, are uphill, via an often-
muddy but rewarding hour-long hike. Expect showers on the Kipahulu coast.
VISITOR CENTER The Kipahulu Ranger Station ( & 808/248-7375 ) is
staffed from 9am to 5pm daily. Restrooms are available, but there's no drinking
water. Here you'll find park-safety information, exhibits, and books. Rangers
offer a variety of walks and hikes year-round; check at the station for current
activities. Tent camping is permitted in the park; see “For the Active Family,”
later in this chapter, for details.
BEYOND OHEO GULCH
A mile past Oheo Gulch on the ocean side of the road is Lindbergh's Grave.
First to fly across the Atlantic Ocean, Charles A. Lindbergh (1902-74) found
peace in the Pacific; he settled in Hana, where he died of cancer in 1974. The
famous aviator is buried under river stones in a seaside graveyard behind the
1857 Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church. Kids under 10 may not be
impressed by a graveyard, but it's worth a 10-minute stop.
Those of you who are continuing on around Maui to the fishing village of
Kaupo and beyond should be warned that Kaupo Road, or Old Piilani High-
way (Hwy. 31), is rough and unpaved, often full of potholes and ruts. There are
no goods or services until you reach Ulupalakua Ranch, where there's a winery,
a general store, and a gas station, which is likely to be closed. Before you attempt
this journey, ask around about road conditions, or call the Maui Public Works
Department ( & 808/248-8254 ) or the Police Department ( & 808/248-8311 ).
This road frequently washes out in the rain. Most car rental companies forbid
you from taking their cars on this road (they don't want to trek all the way out
here to get you if your car breaks down), so you'd be better off retracing your
route back through Hana. But if conditions are good, it can be a pretty drive in
the spring. (It tends to be dry and boring in summer.)