Maui - Hawaii with Kids - page 281

Tips: Practice aloha. Give way at one-lane bridges, wave at oncoming
motorists, let the big guys in 4 4s have the right of way—it's just common

sense, brah. If the guy behind you blinks his lights, let him pass. And don't honk
your horn—in Hawaii, it's considered rude.
THE JOURNEY BEGINS IN PAIA Before you even start out, fill up your
gas tank. Gas in Paia is expensive, and it's the last place for gas until you get to
Hana, some 54 bridges and 600 hairpin turns down the road.
Paia was once a thriving sugar-mill town. The mill is still here, but the popu-
lation shifted to Kahului in the 1950s when subdivisions opened there, leaving
Paia to shrivel up and die. But the town refused to give up, and it has proven its
ability to adapt to the times. Now chic eateries and trendy shops stand next door
to the old ma-and-pa establishments. Plan to be here early, around 7am, when
Charley's , 142 Hana Hwy. ( & 808/579-9453 ), opens. Enjoy a big, hearty
breakfast for a reasonable price.
WINDSURFING MECCA Just before mile marker 9 is Hookipa Beach
Park , where top-ranked windsurfers come to test themselves against the
forces of nature: thunderous surf and forceful wind. On nearly every windy day,
after noon (the boardsurfers have the waves in the morning), you can watch
dozens of windsurfers twirling and dancing in the wind like colored butterflies.
To watch them, do not stop on the highway, but go past the park and turn left
at the entrance on the far side of the beach. You can either park on the high
grassy bluff or drive down to the sandy beach and park alongside the pavilion.
Facilities include restrooms, a shower, picnic tables, and a barbecue area.
INTO THE COUNTRY Past Hookipa Beach, the road winds down into
Maliko Gulch at mile marker 10. At the bottom of the gulch, look for the road
on your right, which will take you out to Maliko Bay. Take the first right, which
goes under the bridge and past a rodeo arena and on to the rocky beach. There
are no facilities here except a boat-launch ramp. In the 1940s, Maliko had a
thriving community at the mouth of the bay, but its residents rebuilt farther
inland after a strong tidal wave wiped it out.
Back on the Hana Highway, for the next few miles, you'll pass through the
rural area of Haiku, where you'll see banana patches, forests of guavas and
palms, and avocados. Just before mile marker 15 is the Maui Grown Market
and Deli ( & 808/572-1693 ), a good stop for drinks or snacks for the ride.
At mile marker 16, the curves begin, one right after another. Slow down and
enjoy the view of bucolic rolling hills, mango trees, and vibrant ferns. After mile
marker 16, the road is still called the Hana Highway, but the number changes
from Highway 36 to Highway 360, and the mile markers go back to 0.
A GREAT PLUNGE ALONG THE WAY A dip in a waterfall pool is every-
body's tropical-island fantasy. A great place to stop is Twin Falls

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Travel Tip
If you'd like to know exactly what you're seeing as you head down the
road to Hana, rent a cassette tour for $10 a day. It's available from Activ-
ity Warehouse ( & 800/923-4004; www.travelhawaii.com), which has
branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street ( & 808/661-1970 ),
and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near
Lipoa Street ( & 808/875-4050 ).

Tips