Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE DRIVE TO THE SUMMIT
If you look on a Maui map, almost in the middle of the part that resembles a
torso, there's a black, wiggly line that looks like this: WWWWW . That's Highway
378, also known as Haleakala Crater Road —one of the fastest-ascending roads
in the world. This grand corniche has at least 33 switchbacks; passes through
numerous climate zones; goes under, in, and out of clouds; takes you past rare
silversword plants and endangered Hawaiian geese sailing through the clear, thin
air; and offers a view that extends for more than 100 miles.
Driving to the summit takes 1 1 2 to 2 hours from Kahului. No matter where
you start out, you'll follow Highway 37 (Haleakala Hwy.) to Pukalani, where
you'll pick up Highway 377 (aka Haleakala Hwy.), which you'll take to Highway
378. Along the way, expect fog, rain, and wind. You may encounter stray cattle
and downhill bicyclists. Fill up your gas tank before you go—the only gas avail-
able is 27 miles below the summit at Pukalani. There are no facilities beyond the
ranger stations—not even a coffee urn in sight. Bring your own food and water.
Remember, you're entering a high-altitude wilderness area. Some people get
dizzy due to the lack of oxygen; you might also suffer lightheadedness, shortness
of breath, nausea, or worse: severe headaches, flatulence, and dehydration. Peo-
ple with asthma, pregnant women, heavy smokers, and those with heart condi-
tions should be especially careful in the rarefied air. Bring water and a jacket or
a blanket, especially if you go up for sunrise. Or you might want to go up to the
summit for sunset, which is also spectacular.
At the park entrance, you'll pay an entrance fee of $10 per car (or $2 for a
bicycle). About a mile from the entrance is Park Headquarters, where an
endangered nene, or Hawaiian goose, may greet you with its unique call. With
its black face, buff cheeks, and partially webbed feet, the gray-brown bird looks
like a small Canada goose with zebra stripes; it brays out “nay-nay” (thus its
name), doesn't migrate, and prefers lava beds to lakes. More than 25,000 nenes
once inhabited Hawaii, but habitat destruction and predators (hunters, pigs,
feral cats and dogs, and mongooses) nearly caused their extinction. By 1951,
there were only 30 left. Now protected as Hawaii's state bird, the number of wild
nene on Haleakala numbers fewer than 250—the species remains endangered.
Beyond headquarters are two scenic overlooks on the way to the summit;
stop at Leleiwi on the way up and Kalahaku on the way back down, if only to
get out, stretch, and get accustomed to the heights. Take a deep breath, look
around, and pop your ears. If you feel dizzy, drowsy, or get a sudden headache,
consider turning around and going back down.
Leleiwi Overlook is just beyond mile marker 17. From the parking area,
a short trail leads you to a panoramic view of the lunarlike crater. When the
clouds are low and the sun is in the right place, usually around sunset, you may
experience a phenomenon known as the “Specter of the Brocken”—you can see
a reflection of your shadow, ringed by a rainbow, in the clouds below. It's an
optical illusion caused by a rare combination of sun, shadow, and fog that occurs
in only three places on the planet: Haleakala, Scotland, and Germany.
Descending from the Crater
When driving down Haleakala Crater Road, be sure to put your car in low
gear; that way, you won't destroy your brakes by riding them the whole
way down.
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