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retro-Hawaiian-themed restaurant, has reopened after a $3-million renovation
and moved to the upper level of the lobby building, where it serves midpriced
steak and seafood with an ocean view.
Very Expensive
Nick's Fishmarket Maui
SEAFOOD Here's another romantic get-
away option for an adults' night out. The ambience is spectacular, the fragrant
stephanotis flowers send out gentle wafts of perfume in the air, and the seafood
is fresh. This is a classic seafood restaurant that sticks to the tried and true (in
other words,
not
an overwrought menu) but stays fresh with excellent ingredi-
ents and a high degree of professionalism in service and preparation. The Greek
Maui Wowie salad gets my vote as one of the top salads in Hawaii. The black-
ened mahimahi has been a Nick's signature for eons, and why not—it's won-
derful. Fresh opah (moonfish), salmon, scallops, Hawaiian lobster tails, and
chicken, beef, and lamb choices offer ample choices for diners, who find them-
selves in a fantasy setting on the south Maui shoreline. There's a kids' menu if
you want to bring them to this sophisticated restaurant, plus crayons to keep
them happy. While you dine on gourmet food, your kids can content themselves
with chicken nuggets.
In the Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui.
&
808/879-7224.
www.tri-star-restaurants.com. Kids'
menu, highchairs, boosters, crayons. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25-$50; prix-fixe dinners
$55-$85; kids' menu $14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30pm. Bar until 11pm.
Spago
HAWAIIAN/CALIFORNIA/PACIFIC REGIONAL Califor-
nia meets Hawaii in this contemporary-designed eatery featuring fresh, local
Hawaii ingredients prepared under the culinary watch of master chef Wolfgang
Puck. Although children are welcome, this is a sophisticated place where the
grownups enjoy cutting-edge cuisine that lives up to Puck's reputation of adding
his innovations to traditional Hawaiian dishes. Open for dinner only, the menu
features an unbelievable coconut soup with local lobster, kaffir, chile, and galan-
gal. For entrees, try the whole steamed fish served with chile, ginger, and baby
choy sum; the incredible Kona lobster with sweet and sour banana curry,
coconut rice, and dry-fried green beans; or the grilled cote de boeuf with braised
celery, Armagnac, peppercorns, and
pommes aligot.
The wine and beverage list is
well-thought-out and extensive. Save room for dessert; don't pass up the warm
guanaja chocolate tart with Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream. Make reservations
as soon as you land on the island (if not before); this place is popular. And bring
plenty of cash or your platinum card.
Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea 96753.
&
808/879-2999.
www.fourseasons.com/
maui. Kids' menu, highchairs, boosters, crayons. Reservations required. Main courses $30-$50; kids' prix-fixe
menu $15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30-9pm; bar with pupu daily 5-11pm.
Moderate
Joe's Bar & Grill
AMERICAN GRILL The 270-degree view at Joe's
spans the golf course, tennis courts, ocean, and Haleakala—a worthy setting for
Beverly Gannon's style of American home cooking with a regional twist. The
kids' menu features staples from meatloaf and mashed potatoes to barbecued
ribs. The regular menu also has that great meatloaf (except that big people get a
whole loaf, like Mom used to make) and other hearty dishes like excellent
mashed potatoes, lobster, fresh fish, and filet mignon. Daily specials could be
grilled ahi with white truffle-Yukon gold mashed potatoes, or sautéed mahimahi
with shrimp bisque and sautéed spinach. If chocolate cake is on the menu, you
should definitely spring for it.
