Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Putthabat, a village in the province of Saraburi, about a hundred kilometres northeast of
Bangkok. This is limestone country, and the villagers cut the bamboo from the moun-
tain behind Wat Phra Phutthabat, the stands growing on the mountain ledges providing
exceptionally strong wood. First it is cut to length then left to dry in the sun, where it
takes from fifteen to twenty days for the wood to dry completely, the villagers turning the
bamboo over continuously to ensure consistent drying, the colour turning from green to
a light yellow. The dried wood is cut according to the tone required, a short one produ-
cing a high tone and a long one a low tone. The surface is polished using ground brick
wrapped in coconut husk, and holes drilled based on precise dimensions and spacing ac-
cording to a formula passed down through the generations. Bees' wax is poured into the
flute and a heated rod inserted to melt the wax, leaving a smooth coating on the uneven
inner surface and ensuring a consistency of sound. The more elaborate flutes are covered
in rich markings made by dribbling liquid lead, which is heated in a charcoal-fired kiln.
Ban Lao makes flutes from other materials too, and foreign buyers often order to spe-
cification. Nitaya showed me some ebony instruments tipped with ivory. Others are made
from hardwoods brought out of the northern forests, and from ceramics. The most pop-
ular ones now, however, are made from pvc, and retail for about 50 baht. These sell in the
mass market, being especially popular in schools. Ban Lao occupies two parallel alleys,
and only about half a dozen families are making the flutes now. I couldn't resist buying a
bamboo flute, along with a pvc model as a comparison, but as my musicals skills do not
extend beyond switching on a radio, they live upon my bookcase as souvenirs.
