The Old Harbour - 22 Walks in Bangkok - page 30

In the temple grounds is a monument depicting three up-ended cannons, built to
commemorate a huge gunpowder explosion during the fireworks display staged to mark
the temple's official opening on 13 th January 1837. Dr Dan Beach Bradley, one of the first
Protestant missionaries allowed to work in Bangkok, recorded that thousands of people
had turned out to watch and that many injuries were caused when a cannon exploded.
Bradley, who was a medical doctor, was summoned to treat a monk's injured arm, ampu-
tating it at the shoulder in what was the first case of a Western surgical procedure used
during this era. Possibly it was the fireworks accident that led to the twenty-six large oc-
tagonal water basins, bearing various designs such as dragons, trees, bamboo and flowers,
that were imported from China and installed around the pagoda. Similar basins can be
found at the ancient royal palace of Gu Gong in Beijing, where they were intended for
extinguishing fires, rather than sacred purposes. The lion figures were also brought from
China. If you see children trying to pull the crystal ball out of the male lion's mouth, it is
because they have been told that if they can do so, the ball will turn to pure gold. For all its
other distinguished qualities, Wat Prayoon is best known for a whimsical structure tucked
into the corner of the grounds nearest the river, where it can be found by passing under an
arch bearing the name Khao Mor, or Mor Mountain. Inside this enclosure is a pond with
fish and turtles, and rising out of the water is an artificial mountain that was designed by
Dit Bunnag to resemble the wax of a melting candle. The mountain is a shrine, with caves
and niches occupied by Buddha images and miniature buildings, along with monuments
to the departed. A set of steps leads to the top of the mountain where a bronze pagoda
is situated. Locals call this place Turtle Mountain, and bring their families to feed banana
and papaya to the turtles.
The Portuguese had been the first Europeans to settle in Siam, arriving in Ayutthaya
shortly after they captured Malacca in 1511, shrewdly dispatching an envoy to the king be-
forehand to reassure him that they had no territorial ambitions. In 1516, Portugal signed a
treaty with Siam to supply firearms and munitions, and with the treaty came the rights to
reside, trade and practice their religion in the country. This brought the first Portuguese
friars in 1567, and they established the Catholic Church in Ayutthaya. After the fall of Ay-
utthaya, the Portuguese continued with their military support of Taksin in his efforts to
drive the Burmese out of Siam, and the supply of cannon and muskets contributed signi-
ficantly to the strength of Taksin's army. With Thonburi as the new capital, the king, in re-
cognition of their services, presented the Portuguese with an area of land on the riverbank
and granted them permission to build a church. He visited this community himself on 14 th
September 1769. A wooden church was completed the following year, and as 14 th Septem-