Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Saphan Han, the bridge that was originally a turntable structure to allow vessels to pass up
the newly built canal.
Han
means “to turn”, and the bridge had revolved around a spigot.
This was replaced in the reign of Rama
III
by a structure that had roofed shops built upon
it, but this again was replaced and the current bridge is a prosaic enough crossing, almost
invisible amongst the cluster of vendors. Narrow though it is, both sides of the lane are
lined with shops, with their goods displayed out front. There is room enough for probably
only three people abreast, but the thoroughfare has become more comfortable in recent
years, with the addition for part of the way of a plastic roof, the air-conditioning inside the
shops keeping the interior reasonably cool, or at least not as stiflingly hot as it used to be.
Anyone confronted by Sampeng Lane for the first time will see only a long, long line of
shops, but as is so often the case in Bangkok, the lane falls naturally into a number of sec-
tions selling similar goods. From Saphan Han to Chakrawat Road are outlets for fabrics,
household decorations and jewellery. From Chakrawat to Ratchawong Road are tradition-
al medicine shops, and leatherwear and fabric shops and wholesalers. Ratchawong to Trok
Issaranuphap is for wholesalers and retailers of gifts and stationary, while the final stretch
is for garments, hats, shoes, bags and luggage, and umbrellas. Around the middle of the
stretch is the fresh market of Talat Kao (Old Market), occupying the lanes to the left, while
on the right is Talat Mai (New Market), which is actually the oldest market in Chinatown
and sells dry foods. At the junction of Sampeng and Mangkon Road are two ornate com-
mercial buildings dating from the early years of the twentieth century, their facades being
European in style, although Shanghainese craftsmen fitted out their interiors. Bangkok
Bank is on one side of the way, while Tang To Kang gold shop, on the other, is reputed to
be the oldest gold trader in the city. Both businesses have their origins in Chinatown, al-
though they didn't start out in these premises. The alleys leading off Sampeng often have
names that indicate their original purpose: Trok Khao San was where rice milling com-
panies had their offices; Trok Rang Katha was where metal pans were made; Trok Tao was
where the stove makers had their workshops; Trok Rong Khom was where paper lanterns
were made and where calligraphers and artists worked; and Trok Vet had the unhappy
distinction of leading down to an area of the riverbank that was used as a public latrine.
Wat Sampluem still stands at the entrance to Sampeng Lane, although it was renamed
Wat Chakrawat in the reign of Rama
III
. Chao Phraya Bodindecha had led a military cam-
paign against Laos, and returned with the Phra Bang Buddha image that he installed in
the temple. Phra Bang (literally “Delicate Buddha”) is a cast-bronze, gold-covered stand-
ing Buddha, 83 centimetres (32.6 in) in height, its hands facing forwards, and was, along
with the Emerald Buddha, considered to be an exceptionally powerful talisman. The im-
