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detailing of engineering projects or renovations, the Siamese and Italian cultures can be
seen meeting in a surprising harmony. Phan Fa Lilat Bridge, which takes Ratchadamnoen
Avenue over the second moat, has cast-iron Roman galleys decorating the uprights. The
Red Cross Hospital has a barrel vault ceiling that evokes the image of a European railway
station. Wat Depsirindra, on the bank of the second moat at the eastern side of the city,
was built as a royal crematorium; traditionally the fire is lit by magnifying sunlight onto
a candle, and this has been symbolised by a neoclassical gate with a marble candle, more
Catholic than Buddhist. The Royal Mint, which is today the National Gallery, is now bereft
of its reflecting klong, but has a classical majesty enhanced by its creamy yellow-and-white
Florentine colours. The Siam Commercial Bank, tucked into a leafy corner of Talat Noi, is
a stately Italian villa. During what was a very brief period, little more than half a century,
Italian culture permeated Siamese culture and created works that are a delight to us today.
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