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the temples. Tiny squares of gold, about the size of a postage stamp and no thicker than a
piece of paper were placed between pads of buffalo hide and then pounded rhythmically
with a heavy wooden mallet, hundreds of times. As the gold became warm under the ham-
mer blows, it would spread to ten times its original area and become of micro-thinness,
when it would be snipped into squares with scissors and placed in packets for the faithful.
Today, there are no gold workshops in Thanon Tee Thong, but the street has emerged as
the city's centre for military insignia and for gold and silver trophies. Shop after shop stand
next to each other, packed with medals, badges, buttons, braid, and trophies for every sort
of recognition. This street also used to be where court officials and bureaucrats purchased
their uniforms, and so these two arcane businesses have simply adapted.
Veteran cars outside the garage that was originally the city's first driver licence bureau.
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