Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ko Phayam
Technically part of Laem Son National Park, little Ko Phayam is fringed with beautiful
beaches and - for now - is managing to go mainstream while still holding onto its soul.
The spectacular northwest and southwest coasts are dotted with beach bungalows, breezy
restaurants and bars, and its wooded interior is laced with narrow concrete streets, so you
can certainly understand the appeal. Fauna in the area includes wild pigs, monkeys and
snakes, and there is tremendous bird life. Look for sea eagles, toucans and hornbills. The
one 'village' on the island, where you will also find the main pier and a majestic golden
Buddha at Wat Phayam , caters mostly to tourists. But hit it during a festival (such as the
Cashew Festival in April) and you'll see that islanders still have a firm grip on their
homeland. Motorcycle pathways run down the middle of the island, feeding smaller con-
crete roadways and dirt trails, some of which can be rutted to the point of hazardous -
drive slowly.
The main drawback of Ko Phayam is that the snorkelling isn't great, as high sea tem-
peratures have killed off all the coral. But the Surin Islands are closer to here than any-
where else and you can hop on live-aboard dive expeditions or speedboat transfers. For
dive trips and PADI courses contact Phayam Divers (
08 6995 2598; www.phayamlodge.com ; Ao
Yai) .
KO PHAYAM'S BEACHES
Ko Phayam is dotted with small beaches, but these two long stretches of sandy bliss are where most folks end
up.
Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) A luscious cove with golden sand, jungled bluffs and a rock reef offshore - it's
the most stunning location on the island. Lovers of peace and quiet head here along with some hippies and the
occasional German package tourist. It's a terrific swimming beach as well, except at low tide when the sea re-
cedes leaving mud flats at the southern end. Of course, that's where the sand is at its finest and whitest, streaked
with great brush strokes of tiny pink shells. Hundreds - no, thousands - are piled evocatively in thick drifts by
the sea.
Ao Yai Long, wide and chilled out yet social, this beach attracts everyone from gap-year backpackers and glam-
packing couples to young families and retirees. Surf kicks up in the fringe and low seasons, with a consistent
right-hand break. The best beginner's break is directly in front of Bamboo Bungalows. You can rent boogie
boards and surfboards at guesthouses along the beach. The swimming is great here and the island's best snor-
kelling (still, don't expect much) is found off Laem Rung, Ao Yai's northernmost point.
Sleeping & Eating
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