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it hasn't experienced a peaceful resting place as bandits destroyed much of it in search of
hidden treasures. Deeper in the cave is supposedly a rock formation that looks like Christ
on the cross but our literal eyes couldn't spot it. (Thais are especially imaginative at spot-
ting familiar forms in cave stalactites.)
Around the entrance to the cave you'll meet brazen monkeys looking for handouts.
Guides lurk in the car park, but they're not essential and aren't always forthcoming about
their fees (usually 100B per person). You'll need to arrange transport here from town
(around 150B round-trip).
HISTORICAL SITE
Phra Ram Ratchaniwet
( 0 3242 8083; Ban Peun Palace; admission 50B; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) An incredible art nouveau
creation, construction of this elegant summer palace began in 1910 at the behest of Rama
V (who died just after the project was started). Designed by German architects, who used
the opportunity to showcase contemporary design innovations, inside there are spacious
sun-drenched rooms decorated with exquisite glazed tiles, stained glass, parquet floors
and plenty of wrought-iron details.
While the structure is typical of early 20th century Thailand, a period that saw a local
passion for erecting European-style buildings in an effort to keep up with the 'modern'
architecture of Thailand's colonised neighbours, the scale of the palace is impressive.
Check out the double-spiral staircase, which provides a classic debutante's debut, and the
state-of-the-art, for the time, personal bathroom of the king. The palace is on a military
base 1km south of town; you may be required to show your passport.
Wat Kamphaeng Laeng
(Th Phokarang) A 12th-century remnant of the time when the Angkor (Khmer) king-
dom stretched from present-day Cambodia all the way to the Malay peninsula, this an-
cient and once ornate shrine was originally Hindu before Thailand's conversion to
Buddhism. There is one intact sanctuary, flanked by two smaller shrines and crumbling
sandstone walls, making for intriguing photo opportunities.
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Tham Khao Bandai-It
(donation appreciated; 9am-4pm) This hillside monastery, 2km west of town, sprawls through
several large caverns converted into simple Buddha shrines and meditation rooms.
English-speaking guides (tip appreciated) lead tours, mainly as a precaution against the
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