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Far from clubby pubs lining Venice's alleyways, A Beccafico basks in the sunshine
of Campo Santo Stefano and open Venetian admiration. Chef Adeli serves Sicily-
size bowls of mussels under a bubbling, flaky crust. He defies Venice's cardinal
rule never to mix lagoon seafood with cheese, serving squid-ink pasta with lemon
zest and ricotta. Linger over feather-light Pieoropan Soave Classico, and leave with
a surprisingly full belly - and wallet. (
041 527 48 79; www.abeccafico.com ; Campo Santo
Stefano 2801; meals €25-45;
noon-3pm & 7-11pm;
Accademia)
11 Enoteca al Volto
VENETIAN, CICHETI BAR
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Join the bar crowd working its way through the vast selection of wine and cicheti,
or come early for a table outdoors (in summer). Inside the snug backroom that
looks like a ship's hold, tuck into seaworthy bowls of pasta with bottarga (dried
fish roe), steak drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar, and housemade ravioli. Cash
only. (
041 522 89 45; Calle Cavalli 4081; cicheti €2-4, meals under €25;
10am-3pm &
5.30-10pm Mon-Sat;
Rialto)
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