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Nestled amid gardens overflowing with red radicchio, fennel and pumpkins is this
rust-red agriturismo (farm-stay accommodation). Choose between meat or fish
menus and prepare for a parade of organic dishes: crepes plump with asparagus,
lightly fried Malamocco artichokes and pear tart made with farm eggs. If you
aren't staying the night, reservations are essential for the restaurant. (
041 712 16
53; www.legarzette.it ; Lungomare Alberoni 32; meals €35-45;
12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm mid-
Jan-mid-Dec;
;
Lido)
6 Venissa
MODERN VENETIAN
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An ancient Mazzorbo vineyard deliciously repurposed in 2006 as a destination
restaurant and six-room guesthouse earns acclaim for creative, ultra-local lagoon
cuisine in an unexpected setting, 50 minutes by boat yet worlds apart from San
Marco. The revived vineyard now grows 600-year-old Dorona grapes, yielding a
rare golden wine best enjoyed with lagoon langoustine and salicornia seaweed on
the patio. (
041 527 22 81; www.venissa.it ; Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3;
noon-3pm &
7-9.30pm Tue-Sun;
Mazzorbo)
Understand
Liberty on the Lido
Between 1850 and WWI the Lido was the world's most exclusive seaside resort, with
decadent Stile Liberty (art-nouveau) villas showing off voluptuous curves and wrap-
around ironwork balconies along the shoreline. At the south end of Lido's beach is
Count Volpi's Ottoman-inspired, Fortuny-decorated 1908 Grand Hotel Excelsior. Mid-
strip is 1909 Grand Hotel des Bains, which inspired Thomas Mann's scandalous
Death in Venice but is currently closed as part of a €330 million Lido redevelopment
scheme. Plot your own Liberty walking tour with itineraries available at www2.
comune.venezia.it/lidoliberty.
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