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After decades of restoration, this Renassiance palace hosts temporary exhibitions
inevitably upstaged by its 16th-century frescoes. Predatory birds circle over
trompe l'oeil salon forests; snickering grotesques upstage mythological heroes in
the dining room; and a stairway cameo depicts original owner Doge Grimani re-
ceiving Justice, 40 years after his Inquisition trial for humanist heresy. (
041 520
03 45; www.palazzogrimani.org ; Ramo Grimani 4858; adult/reduced €7/6;
8.15am-2pm Mon,
8.15am-7.15pm Tue-Sun;
Ospedale, Rialto)
10 Museo delle Icone
MUSEUM
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Glowing colours and all-seeing eyes fill this treasure box of 80+ Greek icons made
in 14th- to 17th-century Italy. Keep an eye out for the expressive San Giovanni
Climaco, in which the saintly author of a Greek spiritual guide is distracted from
his work by visions of souls diving into hell. (Museum of Icons;
041 522 65 81;
www.istitutoellenico.org ; Campiello dei Greci 3412; adult/reduced €4/2;
10am-5pm;
Pietà)
Understand
Venice Biennale
The world's most prestigious arts show is something of a misnomer: the Venice Bien-
nale ( www.labiennale.org ) is actually held every year, but the spotlight alternates
between art (odd-numbered years, eg 2015, 2017) and architecture (even-numbered
years, eg 2014, 2016). The June- October art biennial presents contemporary art at
30 national pavilions in the Giardini Pubblici, with additional exhibitions in venues
across town. The architecture biennial is usually held September to November, filling
vast Arsenale boat sheds with high-concept structures.
Venice held its first Biennale in 1895 to reassert its role as global taste-maker and
provide an essential corrective to the brutality of the Industrial Revolution. At first the
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