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Not since Tintoretto lived next door has this neighbourhood seen so much action,
thanks to this bustling osteria . Sicilian chef Lorenzo makes fresh surf-and-turf
pasta daily, including squid atop spinach tagliolini and pasta with zucchini blos-
soms and scampi. Upbeat staff and fish-shaped lamps set a playful mood, and
you'll be handed prosecco (Venetian sparkling wine) to endure waits for tables;
book ahead. ( 041 524 36 77; www.osteriaortodeimori.com ; Campo dei Mori 3386; meals €25-45;
12.30-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon;
Madonna dell'Orto)
10 Antica Adelaide $$
TRATTORIA
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An old osteria with inspired new ideas, Antica Adelaide combines hearty lagoon
fare served here since the 18th century with one of Italy's most exciting menus of
small- production natural wines (eg biodynamic, organic and using natural fer-
mentation). Pair lagoon-clam linguine with organic Cantina Filippi DOC soave,
and orechiette (ear-shaped) pasta with almonds and gorgonzola with Castello di
Arcano's sulphite-free organic Refosco blend. (
041 523 26 29; Calle Priuli 3728; meals
€25-40;
7.30-10.30pm;
Ca' d'Oro)
11 Osteria Da Alberto $
VENETIAN
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All the makings of a true Venetian osteria - hidden location, casks of wine, chan-
deliers that look like medieval torture devices - plus fair prices on spaghetti alla
busara (with shrimp sauce), seasonal cicheti, crispy Venetian seafood fry and silky
panna cotta with strawberries. Call ahead, because the kitchen closes early when
the joint's not jumping. (
041 523 81 53; Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina 5401; meals €15-25;
noon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat;
Fondamenta Nuove)
12 Rizzo $
SANDWICHES, PASTRIES
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Since 1890 Rizzo has been preparing Venetians for train journeys to terra firma
with grilled panini (sandwiches) packed with garlic-spiked sopressa (soft salami)
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