Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Not since Tintoretto lived next door has this neighbourhood seen so much action,
thanks to this bustling
osteria
. Sicilian chef Lorenzo makes fresh surf-and-turf
pasta daily, including squid atop spinach
tagliolini
and pasta with zucchini blos-
soms and scampi. Upbeat staff and fish-shaped lamps set a playful mood, and
you'll be handed
prosecco
(Venetian sparkling wine) to endure waits for tables;
book ahead. (
041 524 36 77;
www.osteriaortodeimori.com
; Campo dei Mori 3386; meals €25-45;
12.30-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon;
Madonna dell'Orto)
10
Antica Adelaide
$$
TRATTORIA
An old
osteria
with inspired new ideas, Antica Adelaide combines hearty lagoon
fare served here since the 18th century with one of Italy's most exciting menus of
small- production natural wines (eg biodynamic, organic and using natural fer-
mentation). Pair lagoon-clam linguine with organic Cantina Filippi DOC soave,
and
orechiette
(ear-shaped) pasta with almonds and gorgonzola with Castello di
Arcano's sulphite-free organic Refosco blend. (
041 523 26 29; Calle Priuli 3728; meals
€25-40;
7.30-10.30pm;
Ca' d'Oro)
11
Osteria Da Alberto
$
VENETIAN
All the makings of a true Venetian
osteria
- hidden location, casks of wine, chan-
deliers that look like medieval torture devices - plus fair prices on spaghetti
alla
busara
(with shrimp sauce), seasonal
cicheti,
crispy Venetian seafood fry and silky
panna cotta with strawberries. Call ahead, because the kitchen closes early when
the joint's not jumping. (
041 523 81 53; Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina 5401; meals €15-25;
noon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat;
Fondamenta Nuove)
12
Rizzo
$
SANDWICHES, PASTRIES
Since 1890 Rizzo has been preparing Venetians for train journeys to terra firma
with grilled
panini
(sandwiches) packed with garlic-spiked
sopressa
(soft salami)