Travel Reference
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Eating
7 All'Arco $
VENETIAN
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Father-son maestri Francesco and Matteo invent Venice's best cicheti daily with
Rialto Market finds. Behind marble counters, Francesco wraps poached Bassano
white asparagus with seasoned pancetta, while Matteo creates otrega (butterfish)
crudo (Venetian-style sushi) with mint-olive oil marinade and Hawaiian red-clay
salt. Be patient: even with copious prosecco (Venetian sparkling wine), hardly any
meal here tops €20 or falls short of five stars. (
041 520 56 66; Calle dell'Ochialer 436;
cicheti €1.50-4;
8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 6-9pm Apr-Oct, closed Jul & Aug;
Rialto-Mercato)
8 Antiche Carampane $$
VENETIAN
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Hidden in the lanes behind Ponte delle Tette, this culinary indulgence is a trick to
find. The sign proudly announcing 'no tourist menu' signals a welcome change:
say goodbye to soggy lasagne and hello to silky, lagoon-fresh crudi , asparagus and
granseola (lagoon crab) salad, cloudlike gnocchi, and San Pietro (whitefish) atop
grilled radicchio. (
041 524 01 65; www.antichecarampane.com ; Rio Terà delle Carampane 1911,
San Polo; meals €30-45;
noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat;
San Stae)
9 Alaska Gelateria $
GELATO
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Outlandish organic artisanal gelato: enjoy a Slow Food scoop of house-roasted loc-
al pistachio, or two of the tangy Sicilian lemon with vaguely minty Sant'Erasmo
carciofi (artichokes). Even vegans are spoiled for choice of flavours, including wa-
termelon and rose. Kids who choose strawberry granita (shaved ice) can top the
confection with a leaf plucked from the basil plant on the counter. (
041 71 52 11;
Calle Larga dei Bari 1159, Santa Croce; gelati €1-2;
noon-8pm;
;
Riva de Biasio)
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