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Hello, gorgeous: from 18th-century duchess andrienne (hip-extending dresses) to
Anne Hathaway's mega-ruffled Versace Venice Film Festival ballgown, Palazzo
Mocenigo's historic, head-turning fashion will leave you feeling glamorous by as-
sociation, if a tad underdressed. Necklines plunge in the Red Living Room , leth-
al corsets come undone in the Contessa's Bedroom and men's paisley knee-
breeches reveal leg in the Dining Room . ( 041 72 17 98; http://mocenigo.visitmuve.it ;
Salizada di San Stae 1992, Santa Croce; adult/reduced €5/3.50, or with Museum Pass;
10am-5pm
Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar;
San Stae)
5 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio
CHURCH
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La Serenissima seems serene as ever inside the cool gloom of this Romanesque
church, founded in the 9th to 10th centuries and completed in Latin-cross form by
1225, with chapels bubbling along the edges. Notable 14th- to 18th-century art-
works include luminous sacristy paintings by Palma Il Giovane, a rare Lorenzo
Lotto Madonna with Child and Saints and an exceptional Veronese crucifix (cur-
rently undergoing restoration). ( www.chorusvenezia.org ; Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio 1457,
Santa Croce; admission €3, or with Chorus Pass;
10am-5pm Mon-Sat;
Riva de Biasio)
6 Chiesa di San Giovanni Elemosinario
CHURCH
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Hunkering modestly behind skimpy T-shirt kiosks is this soaring Renaissance
brick church, built by Scarpagnino after a disastrous fire in 1514 destroyed much
of the Rialto area. Cross the darkened threshhold to witness flashes of Renaissance
genius: Titian's tender St John the Almsgiver (freshly restored and returned from
the Accademia) and gloriously restored dome frescoes of frolicking angels by
Pordenone. (Ruga Vecchia di San Giovanni 477, San Polo; admission €3, or with Chorus Pass;
10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun;
Rialto-Mercato)
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