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The cast of characters who sweep into this tiny cafe throughout the day seem bor-
rowed from Pietro Longhi's paintings at neighbouring Ca' Rezzonico. Cheerful bar-
tenders aren't the least fazed by dashing caped strangers swilling double espresso,
or spaniels tucked underarm jealously eyeing the pastries. (
393 968 01 35; Campo
San Barnaba 2771;
7am-midnight Mon-Sat, from 9am Sun;
Ca' Rezzonico)
Entertainment
20 Venice Jazz Club
LIVE MUSIC
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Jazz is alive and swinging in Dorsoduro, where the resident Venice Jazz Club
Quartet pays regular respects to Miles Davis and John Coltrane, heats up on Latin
Friday, and grooves to bossa nova and chanteuse standards. Drinks are steep, so
starving artists booze beforehand and arrive by 8pm to pounce on complimentary
cold-cut platters. (
041 523 20 56; www.venicejazzclub.com ; Ponte dei Pugni 3102; admission
incl 1st drink €20;
doors 7pm, set begins 9pm, closed Aug;
Ca' Rezzonico)
Top Tip
Dorsoduro Walking Distances
Dorsoduro points into the lagoon like a slightly dinged gondola prow, and sites are
spread out. Museums are along the Grand Canal on the east side, while boisterous
bars and upbeat eateries are clumped around Campo Santa Margherita and Campo
San Barnaba to the northwest. Don't wait too long for your lunch break: many restaur-
ants stop serving lunch around 2pm, and the best options are a 20-minute walk from
the Guggenheim or Punta della Dogana.
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