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Local Life
Squero San Trovaso
The wood cabin OFFLINE MAP (C4; Campo San Trovaso 1097) along Rio di San Trovaso may
look like a stray ski chalet, but it's one of Venice's three working squeri (shipyards),
with refinished gondolas drying in the yard. When the door's open, you can peek in-
side in exchange for a donation left in the can by the door. To avoid startling gondola-
builders working with sharp tools, no flash photography is allowed.
Eating
8 Ristorante La Bitta €€
RISTORANTE
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The daily menu arrives on an artist's easel, and the hearty rustic fare looks like a
still life and tastes like a carnivore's dream: steak comes snugly wrapped in bacon,
and roast rabbit tops marinated rocket. This bistro focuses on local meats - 'bitta'
means 'mooring post' - and seats only 35. Reservations essential; cash only. (
041 523 05 31; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2753a; meals €30-40;
dinner Mon-Sat;
Ca' Rezzonico)
9 Enoteca Ai Artisti €€€
RISTORANTE
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Indulgent cheeses, exceptional nero di seppia (cuttlefish ink) pasta, and tender
tagliata (sliced steak) drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar atop arugula are paired
with exceptional wines by the glass by your oenophile hosts. Pavement tables for
two make great people-watching, but book ahead for indoor tables for groups as
space is limited. (
041 523 89 44; www.enotecaartisti.com ; Fondamenta della Toletta 1169a;
meals €40-50;
noon-4pm & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat;
Ca' Rezzonico)
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