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one happy hour. Pace yourself on your giro d'ombra (pub crawl), lest
you end up in the drink of a nearby canal.
Snacks at Ai Do Draghi
'Permesso!' (Pardon!) is the chorus inside this historic bar ( 041 528 97 31;
Calle della Chiesa 3665; 7.30am-10pm Fri-Wed; Ca' Rezzonico) , where the crowd
spills onto the sidewalk and tries not to spill drinks in the process. Arrive at
the tiny wooden bar early for the best choice of 45-plus wines by the glass and
respectable tramezzini (sandwiches).
Spritz at Il Caffè Rosso
Locals affectionately call this red storefront ( 041 528 79 98; Campo Santa Mar-
gherita 2963; 7am-1am Mon-Sat; Ca' Rezzonico) 'al rosso' (the red), and its inex-
pensive spritz ( prosecco and bitters cocktail) generously splashed with Aperol
gives visitors and locals alike an instant flush of Venetian colour. Plan to ar-
rive when the clock strikes ' spritz o'clock' at 6pm sharp, and mingle with
standing-room-only crowds.
Cocktails at Imagina Café
For your next stop, branch out to top-shelf cocktails served at this sleek, back-
lit bar (
041 241 06 25; www.imaginacafe.it ; Rio Terà Canal 3126;
8am-2am Mon-Sat;
;
Ca' Rezzonico) surrounded by local art. The creative, chatty and gay-friendly
crowd here should probably start paying rent at outdoor tables, while their
sweater-clad dogs bask in the admiration of passers-by.
Wining & Dining at Cantina di Millevini
Before the next round of drinks, grab a table indoors on the piazza for sooth-
ing soups, salads and fish carpaccio of the day (€6.50 to €10). This respected
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