Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
GETTING AROUND
By bus
There is effectively no public transport on the
island, though you might be able to flag down the school
bus during term.
By taxi
Taxis are available, especially at Vathý's square.
By car and motorbike
Cars and motorbikes can be
rented through the two main travel agencies, based in
Vathý, Polyctor Tours (
T
26740 33120,
W
ithakiholidays
.com) and Delas Tours (
T
26740 32104,
W
ithaca.com.gr).
Vathý and around
Itháki's main port and capital is
VATHÝ
, enclosed by a bay within a bay so deep that few
realize the mountains out “at sea” are actually the north of the island. This snug town is
compact, relatively traffic-free and boasts the most idyllic seafront setting of all the
Ionian capitals. Like its southerly neighbours, it was heavily damaged by the 1953
earthquake but some fine examples of pre-quake architecture remain. Vathý has a small
archeological museum
on Kalliníkou (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free), a short block
back from the quay. Near the corner of the quay behind the Agricultural Bank, there is
also the moderately interesting
Folklore & Cultural Museum
(April-Oct Mon-Fri
10am-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm; €1).
11
Beaches around Vathý
There are two reasonable pebble
beaches
within fifteen minutes' walk of Vathý:
Dhéxa
,
over the hill above the ferry quay, and tiny
Loútsa
, opposite it around the bay. The
better beaches at
Sarakíniko
and
Skínos
are an hour's trek along paved roads leaving the
opposite side of the bay. In season, daily
kaïkia
ply between the quay and remote coves.
ODYSSEUS SIGHTS AROUND VATHÝ
Three of the main
Odysseus
sights are just within walking distance of Vathý: the Arethoússa
Spring, the Cave of the Nymphs and ancient Alalkomenae, although the last is best
approached by
moped
or
taxi
.
THE ARETHOÚSSA SPRING
The walk to the
Arethoússa Spring
- allegedly the place where Eumaeus, Odysseus's faithful
swineherd, brought his pigs to drink - is a three-hour round trip along a track signposted next
to the seafront telecoms o
ce. The unspoilt but shadeless landscape and sea views are
magnificent but some of the inclines can be slippery.
Near the top of the lane leading to the spring path, a signpost points up to what is said to
have been the
Cave of Eumaeus
. The route to the spring continues for a few hundred metres,
and then branches off onto a narrow footpath through steep gorse-covered cliffs. Parts of the
final downhill track involve scrambling across rock fields (follow the splashes of green paint),
and care should be taken around the small but vertiginous ravine that houses the
spring
. The
ravine sits below a crag known as
Kórax
(the raven), which matches Homer's description of the
meeting between Odysseus and Eumaeus. In summer it's just a dribble of water.
THE CAVE OF THE NYMPHS
The
Cave of the Nymphs
(Marmarospíli) is about 2.5km up a rough but navigable road
signposted on the brow of the hill above Dhéxa beach. The cave is atmospheric, but it's
underwhelming compared to the caverns of neighbouring Kefaloniá and, these days, is
illuminated by coloured lights. The claim that this is
The
Odyssey
is Cave of the Nymphs, where
the returning Odysseus concealed the gifts given to him by King Alkinous, is enhanced by the
proximity of Dhéxa beach.
ALALKOMENAE
Alalkomenae
, Heinrich Schliemann's much-vaunted “Castle of Odysseus”, is signposted on
the Vathý-Pisaetós road, on the saddle between Dhéxa and Pisaetós, with views over both
sides of the island. The actual site, however, some 300m uphill, is little more than foundations
spread about in the gorse, and in fact the most likely contender for the site of Odysseus's
castle is above the village of Stavrós (see opposite).
