Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Erétria
Modern
ERÉTRIA
is a dull-looking resort on a grid plan; for most travellers its main
asset is a ferry service across to Skála Oropoú. The place deserves a closer look,
though. For a start it boasts some of the best
beaches
on this stretch of coast, to the
east of the harbour, and more importantly it preserves the remains of
Ancient Eretria
,
the most impressive on the island. Eretria was an important city from the eighth
century BC to the sixth century AD, flourishing above all around 400 BC following
the decline of Athens. First stop on your exploration should be the
museum
(Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; €2), on the edge of town by the main road, where you can
pick up a leaflet with a map showing all the main sites around town. Among the
museum's displays of ceramics, statues and jewellery, labelled mainly in Greek and
French, the tenth-century BC Lefkandi Centaur stands out - a lovely piece and one
of the earliest known examples of figurative pottery. There are also fascinating models
of the ancient city.
It's worth crossing the road from the museum to see the overgrown West Gate and
theatre
, but of the other sites, many of them locked, the unarguable highlight is the
House of Mosaics
. Here, under a modern cover, four magnificent mosaic floors
dating from around 370 BC have been preserved, vividly depicting animals and
mythical scenes.
10
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ERÉTRIA
By ferry
Ferries shuttle the short crossing to Skála Oropoú
roughly every 20min (6.30am-9.30pm; 25min;
T
22290
62201 or 64990).
By bus
Erétria is linked to Halkídha (18 daily; 30min).
ACCOMMODATION
Eviana Beach
Oníron
T
22290 62113,
W
evianabeach
.gr.
Smart hotel at the start of the beach road, right
behind the beach, handy for town and with great sea
views; all the
roo
ms have balcony, wi-fi and attractive
modern decor.
€60
Kálamos
The most accessible of a number of beautiful coves on the west coast is
Kálamos
, about
7km down narrow lanes from Neohóri on the main road. This stretch of the main road
is dotted with medieval remains - Byzantine chapels and watchtowers which gave
warning of approaching pirates. Kálamos itself is a tiny but stunning cove enclosing a
sandy beach, surrounded by half a dozen tavernas and rooms establishments. In August
it's packed; the rest of the year often deserted.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
KÁLAMOS
Tota Marinou
T
22230 41881.
One of many simple
rooms places right behind the beach, with a welcoming
wat
erfront taverna too. Restaurant open lunch & dinner.
€50
Kými
KÝMI
consists of two parts: the ferry port, properly known as Paralía Kýmis, and the
upper town, 4km up a spectacularly winding road. The port offers plenty of
accommodation and a long row of harbourfront restaurants and cafés should you be
waiting for a ferry, but the upper town is far more attractive, with great views towards
Skýros from its lush, green hillside location. There's a small
folklore
museum
(daily
10am-1pm & 6-8.30pm; €2) with costumes, rural implements and old photos
recording the doings of Kymians both locally and in the US, home to a huge emigrant
community. Among them was Dr George Papanikolaou, deviser of the “Pap” cervical
smear test, who is honoured with a statue up on the platía.
