Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HIKING ON ALÓNISSOS
Although its often harsh, rugged landscape might suggest otherwise, of all the Sporades
Alónissos caters best to
hikers
. Fifteen routes have been surveyed, numbered and admirably
signposted: many provide just short walks from a beach to a village or the main road, but
some can be combined to make meaty circular treks. The best of these are trail #11 from Áyios
Dhimítrios, up the Kastanórema and then back along the coast on #15 (2hr 30min), or trails
#13 plus #12, Melegákia to Áyios Konstandínos and Áyios Yeóryios (just over 2hr, including
some road-walking to return to start). Island resident Chris Browne's comprehensive walking
guide,
Alonnisos Through the Souls of Your Feet
, is available locally; he also leads guided treks
(
T
697 91 62 443,
W
alonnisoswalks.co.uk).
10
Patitíri and around
The island's southeastern corner contains almost its entire population and most of its
visitors.
PATITÍRI
, port and de facto capital,
occupies a sheltered bay flanked by steep,
pine-tufted cliffs and ringed by bars, cafés and tavernas. It's a bit soulless - much is
modern, built after the 1965 earthquake (see below) - but it has tried to compensate
with a stone-paved waterfront and general tidy-up, while the unassuming streets shelter
some unexpectedly fancy shops. The waterfront
MOM Information Centre
(daily
10am-4pm & 6-10pm; free;
W
mom.gr), above the
Avra
café, next to the
Alkyon Hotel
,
has models and multimedia displays about the endangered
monk seal
(see p.687). In an
unmissable stone building above the western side of the harbour, the
Alonissos Museum
(daily May, Sept & Oct 11am-7pm, June-Aug 11am-9pm; €4) is crammed with local
artwork, traditional costumes, reconstructed island interiors, war memorabilia,
wine-making equipment, and exhibits on piracy and seafaring.
Immediately outside Patitíri,
ROUSSOÚM YIALÓS
and adjoining
VÓTSI
, each with a
little fishing harbour, are virtually suburbs. You can walk to the beach at Roussoúm,
down steps from town, which is considerably more pleasant than swimming in Patitíri
itself. Both offer pleasant, good-value rooms and tavernas.
Hóra
HÓRA (Paleá Alónissos)
, the island's original settlement, was severely damaged by a
Sporades-wide earthquake in March 1965, after which most of the reluctant
population was compulsorily moved to Patitíri (see above); the issue was essentially
forced in 1977 by the school's closure and cutting of of electricity. Outsiders later
acquired the abandoned houses for a song and restored them in variable taste; only a
few locals still live here, which gives the village a very twee, un-Greek atmosphere,
abetted by multiple knick-knack and crafts shops. But it's stunningly picturesque, with
great views as far as Mount Áthos in clear conditions. For much of the year, and indeed
for much of most days, there are more hedgehogs than people about; the place only
really comes to life - noisily so - on midsummer evenings. As an alternative to the bus
ride, you can walk up on a well-preserved
kalderími
(45min uphill, 30min down),
signposted of Patitíri's western inland street, almost at the edge of town.
Southern beaches
Numerous small cove beaches surround Alónissos's southern tip. Closest to Patitíri is
Výthisma
- less than 1km down a track off the road to
Marpoúnda
beach (monopolized by
an all-inclusive Italian complex) and then a scramble down into the cove. Look out for the
latest signs, as the paths down are regularly washed out. The grey sand-and-pebble beach is
pretty, and part nudist, but without facilities or shade.
Megálos Mourtiás
is just a short
swim further round, and there is a path which continues that way, but most people get
here on the steep paved road from Hóra. With bright white pebbles and two tavernas, it's a
complete contrast; crowded and noisy.
Mikrós Mourtiás
, just west, is served by a well-
maintained footpath from Hóra (#1), or you can get most of the way down on a driveable
