Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
brisk trade in coffee and sandwiches as well as fabulous
charcoal-grilled meats, including whole roast lamb or goat
on the spit (daily in midsummer, weekends only off-
season).
Daily all day.
Northeast coast
The island's northeast coast is tricky to reach; just a few paved roads go there, from
Skópelos to Glystéri, and from Glóssa to Perivolioú or Áyios Ioánnis Kastrí.
10
Perivolioú
A narrow, winding road through mature pine forest leads to beautiful little
Perivolioú
beach, some 7km from Glóssa close to the island's northern tip. There's ice-clear water
and no development at all at this sandy cove, nor at nearby
Hondroyiórgis
beach,
reached along a driveable track. Continue on this track, and you'll join the road down
to Áyios Ioánnis Kastrí.
Áyios Ioánnis Kastrí
The tiny sand cove at
Áyios Ioánnis Kastrí
is one of the busiest on the island, thanks to
its position at the base of the
Mamma Mia!
wedding chapel. Perched on a rock
monolith (steps lead up), the chapel is almost ridiculously photogenic, and attracts tour
boats from Skiáthos as well as being an essential halt on the round-island trip. Late
afternoon, when they've all left, is generally the quietest time; there's an excellent snack
bar here, serving a mean Greek salad.
Glystéri
Less than 4km northwest of Skópelos Town,
Glystéri
is a small sand-and-pebble beach
at the base of an almost completely enclosed bay. Plenty of people brave the narrow,
steep road and many more arrive by boat - there's a regular shuttle from town - so it
can get busy, especially at weekends when locals pack out the taverna here.
EATING AND DRINKING
NORTHEAST COAST
Palio Karnayio
Glystéri
T
694 43 54 705.
Locals rate
the taverna at Glystéri beach one of the island's best, while
Mamma Mia!
fans are drawn by the reconstructed arch
from the film's
Villa Donna
, so on summer weekends it's
extremely busy. Their speciality is blackfish or Alónissos
tuna stifádo.
Daily lunch & dinner.
Alónissos
ALÓNISSOS
is the largest and only permanently inhabited member of a mini-archipelago
at the east end of the Sporades. It's more rugged and wild than its neighbours, but no
less green; pine forest, olive groves and fruit orchards cover the southern half, while a
dense maquis of arbutus, heather, kermes oak and lentisc cloaks the north. In part
thanks to its marine park status (see p.687), some of Greece's cleanest sea surrounds
Alónissos - the
beaches
rarely match those of Skópelos or Skiáthos for sand or scenery,
but the white pebbles on most of them further enhance the impression of gin-clear
water. Remoteness and limited ferry connections mean that
Alónissos
attracts fewer
visitors than its neighbours. There is, however, a significant British and Italian presence
(the latter mostly in all-inclusive hotels), while Greeks descend in force all summer.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ALÓNISSOS
By ferry
Hellenic Seaways (
W
hsw.gr) flying dolphins and
ferries run three times daily for most of the year - more in
midsummer - to and from Skópelos (20-30min), Skiáthos
(1hr 25min-1hr 45min) and either Vólos (3hr 15min-4hr
30min) or Áyios Konstandínos (3hr-5hr). In summer NEL
Lines (
W
nel.gr) also have a ferry with daily connection to
Skópelos, Skiáthos and Áyios Konstandínos, and Skyros
Shipping (
W
sne.gr) go twice a week to Skópelos and to
Kými on Évvia (2hr 30min). Connections to flights in
Skiáthos can be very busy: try to book in advance.
