Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
Another famous native of ancient Eressós, honoured by a stylized statue on the platía,
was Sappho (c.615-562 BC), poetess and reputed lesbian. There are thus always
conspicuous numbers of gay women about (especially during the annual September
festival), particularly in the clothing-optional zone of the beach west of the river
mouth, also home to a small community of terrapins.
ACCOMMODATION SKÁLA ERESSOÚ
For accommodation, it's wise to entrust the search to Sappho Travel ( T 22530 52202, W sapphotravel.com) who can
arrange something to suit your needs; they also rent out cars.
Iy Galini T 22530 53138, W hotel-galinos.gr. Three
blocks inland, this welcoming, slightly old-fashioned
hotel with a colourful yard outside has cosy, spotlessly
clean roo ms w ith little balconies. Wi-fi in lobby. Breakfast
included. €40
Sappho the Eressia T 22530 53233, W sappho-hotel
.com. With wi-fi and a pleasant ground-floor snack bar,
this central seafront hotel has been spruced up to attract
all co mers , having dropped its previous women-only
policy. €40
EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
With about seven clubs/bars to choose from in peak season, local nightlife is the best on the island and all are gay-
friendly. There's also a central, open-air cinema (July to early Sept), predictably called Sappho.
Ioannis & Gabi T 22530 53272. Run by a Greek-Austrian
couple, this garden taverna is a delightful spot to sample
simple home-style cooking with a range of meat, fish and
vegetarian dishes, washed down by fine barrelled wine.
May-Oct daily noon-midnight.
Kyani Sardhini/Blue Sardine T 22530 53503. A
creditable seafood ouzerí at the far west end of the front,
where the engaging manager will provide anything from
lobster and crab at market rates to more modest small fish.
April-Oct daily 11am-1am.
Parasol Ethnic sounds abound and exotic cocktails flow at
one of the resort's most enduring café-cum-bars, with an
attractive central seafront location under a thatched
bamboo roof. May to early Oct daily 10am-late.
Samadhi T 697 62 00 799. On the east quay, this trendy
and upmarket newcomer does steaks for €17, plus pitsa ,
curries, unusual salads such as niçoise and some innovative
desserts. May-Sept daily 10am-2am.
Sappho Garden T 22530 53682. Relaxed garden bar a
couple of blocks inland, largely frequented by lesbians,
often with live performances from poetry to music, and
events like yoga sessions. April-Oct daily 11am-2am.
Northern Lésvos
The northern part of Lésvos is largely fertile and green countryside stippled with
poplars and blanketed by olive groves. Occupying the prime position on a promontory
in the middle of the coast is one of the northeast Aegean's most attractive resorts,
Mólyvos , whose castle's cockscomb silhouette is visible for many kilometres around. On
either side of it, a number of coastal resorts offer superior bathing.
Mólyvos (Míthymna)
MÓLYVOS (officially Míthymna after its ancient predecessor), 61km from Mytilíni, is
the island's most beautiful village, with tiers of sturdy, red-tiled houses, some standing
with their rear walls defensively towards the sea, mounting the slopes between the
picturesque harbour and the Byzantine-Genoese castle . A score of weathered Turkish
fountains, a mosque and hammam grace flower-fragrant, cobbled alleyways, reflecting
the fact that before 1923 Muslims constituted more than a third of the local
population and owned many of the finest dwellings.
Modern dwellings and hotels have been banned from the old core, but this hasn't
prevented a steady drain of all authentic life from the upper bazaar ; perhaps four or
five “ordinary” shops ply their trade among souvenir shops vastly surplus to
requirements. The shingly town beach is mediocre, improving considerably as you head
towards the sandy southern end of the bay, called Psiriára .
 
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