Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Around Híos Town
Vrondádhos is served by Blue urban buses from Híos Town; most buses heading here are labelled “the Teacher's Rock”
North of Híos Town,
VRONDÁDHOS
is an elongated coastal suburb that's a favourite
residence of the many local seafarers. Homer is alleged to have lived and taught here,
and in terraced parkland just above the little fishing port and pebble beach you can
visit his purported lectern, more likely an ancient altar of Cybele.
The locals swim at the tiny pebble coves near here or from the grubby town beach in
Bélla Vísta, but really the closest decent option is at
Karfás
, 7km south beyond the
airport. However, as most large Hiot resort hotels are planted here, the 500m-long
beach itself, sandy only at the south end, has limited appeal. The nearby inland village
of
Thymianá
offers a more authentic atmosphere and better dining options.
Some 2km further along the coast from Karfás,
Ayía Ermióni
is a fishing anchorage,
adjoining the next proper beach at
Mégas Limniónas
, a few hundred metres further on,
smaller than Karfás but more scenic, with low cliffs as a backdrop. Some 4km further
south is the turning for
Ayía Fotiní
, also known as Ayía Fotiá, a 600m pebble
beach
with exceptionally clean water. Cars are excluded from the shore area and the
pedestrian esplanade is lined with various rooms and tavernas. Five kilometres further
south, back via the main road, the small fishing village of
Katarráktis
is a pleasant spot
where locals in the know go to eat.
9
ACCOMMODATION
AROUND HÍOS TOWN
Apartments Iro
Ayía Ermióni
T
22710 51166.
Large
self-catering studios on the seafront beside the access road,
with sea views from the balconies.
Nicely
furnished, with
a/c and dedicated parking. April-Oct.
€40
Karatzas
Karfás
T
22710 31221.
Typically compact but
decent-value rooms above a taverna at the northern end of
the seafront, which offers pricey
ish
but much more
reasonable meat dishes. April-Oct.
€35
Ì
Markos' Place
Karfás
T
22710 31990,
W
marcos-
place.gr.
Markos Kostalas has lovingly created a peaceful,
leafy environment on the hillside behind the bay out of a
beautiful deconsecrated monastery. Guests stay in the
former pilgrims' cells, with a kitchen available
or su
perior
breakfasts provided by arrangement. April-Nov.
€35
Mavrokordatiko
1.5km south of the airport
T
22710
32900,
W
mavrokordatiko.com.
With enormous wood-
panelled rooms and spacious communal areas, including
a fine café/restaurant, this renovated mansion, 1.5km
south of
the
airport, oozes atmosphere. Breakfast
included.
€70
EATING AND DRINKING
Ankyra
Mégas Limniónas
T
22710 32178.
All-round
reliable
psarotaverna
behind the middle of the beach,
serving fish of all categories and an accompanying range of
meat, veg and salads, as well as a fine ouzo selection.
May-Oct daily 11am-midnight.
O Tsambos
Katarráktis
T
22710 61601.
Long-established
favourite taverna on the centre of the seafront,
with friendly
management and a wide menu, including the cheapest pork
chops on Híos at only €5.
April-Oct daily 11am-1am.
Ì
To Talimi
Thymianá
T
22710 32940.
Serves
excellent home-style
mayireftá
like
yiouvarlákia
,
kókoras
krasáto
or bean-and-artichoke salad at friendly prices in a
lovely shady courtyard in the centre of the village.
Daily
noon-midnight.
The Twins
Ayía Fotiní
T
22710 51630.
At the seaward
end of the access road, this is easily the best taverna in the
resort, excelling in shrimp fritters and other seafood
delights, mostly for under
€10.
May-Oct daily 10am-2am.
The mastihohoriá
Besides olive groves, southern Híos's gently rolling countryside is home to the
mastic bush
,
and the twenty or so
mastihohoriá
, or mastic villages (see box, p.626). Since the decline of
the mastic trade, the
mastihohoriá
live mainly off their tangerines, apricots and olives,
though the villages, the only settlements on Híos spared by the Ottomans in 1822, retain
their architectural uniqueness, designed by the Genoese but with a distinctly Middle
Eastern feel. The basic plan involves a rectangular warren of tall houses, with the outer row
doubling as perimeter fortification, and breached by a limited number of gateways. More
recent additions, whether in traditional architectural style or not, straggle outside the
original defences. Of the surviving villages, three stand out:
Pyrgí
,
Olýmbi
and
Mestá
.