Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Hotel Kerkis Bay
Órmos Marathokámbou
T
22730
37202,
W
kerkis-bay.com.
Fairly spacious rooms are
available at this pleasant spot, one block inland from mid-
quay. There are various sports facilities (though no pool)
and a d
ecent
restaurant. Breakfast included. Mid-April to
late Oct.
€35
Iy Trata
Órmos Marathokámbou
T
22730 31859.
The
most authentic taverna in the resort, at its eastern end just
off the pedestrian zone, specializes in fresh local fish, often
at under €10 per portion.
April-Oct daily 10am-1am.
Limnionas Bay Village
Limniónas
T
22730 37057,
W
hotel-limnionas-bay-village.co.uk.
Large rather
characterless resort right behind the bay with tiered units
arrayed around a garden full of oli
ve t
rees and a decent
pool. Breakfast included. May-Oct.
€60
Ì
Loukoullos
Fournáki
T
22730 37147.
This
welcoming restaurant with a lovely courtyard overlooking
the first cove is better in the evening, when the full range of
tasty and inexpensive
mayireftá
and home-grown veg
dishes is available.
May-Sept daily noon-midnight.
9
Mount Kérkis and around
A limestone/volcanic oddity in a predominantly schist landscape,
Mount Kérkis
(Kerketévs) - the Aegean's second-highest summit after Mount Sáos on Samothráki
- attracts legends and speculation as easily as the cloud pennants that usually wreath it.
Hermits colonized and sanctified the mountain's many caves in Byzantine times;
resistance guerrillas controlled it during World War II; and mariners still regard it with
superstitious awe, especially when mysterious lights - presumed to be the spirits of the
departed hermits, or the aura of some forgotten holy icon - are glimpsed at night near
the cave-mouths. Gazing up from a supine seaside position, you may be inspired to
climb the peak
(see box below), though less ambitious walkers might want to
circle the
mountain's flank,
, first by vehicle and then by foot. The road beyond Limniónas
through
Kallithéa
is paved all the way to
Dhrakéï
.
Dhrakéï and Megálo Seïtáni
DHRAKÉÏ
is a minuscule, back-of-beyond village with views across to Ikaría. A lovely
trail - minimally disrupted by a track - descends ninety minutes through forest to
Megálo Seïtáni
, from where it's easy to continue on to Karlóvassi within another
two-and-a-half hours. People climbing up from Seïtáni must either retrace their steps,
summon a taxi or stay at a few unofficial
rooms
establishments in Dhrakéï.
Kallithéa, Panayía Makriní, Ayía Triádha and around
During term time a vehicle leaves Karlóvassi (Mon-Fri 1.20pm) bound for Kallithéa; during summer it only operates twice a week (Mon to
Dhrakéï, Fri to Kallithéa)
From
Kallithéa
, a small village 7km southwest of Dhrakéï with just a simple grill on its tiny
square, a newer track (from beside the cemetery) and an older trail both lead up within 45
minutes to a spring, rural chapel and plane tree on the west flank of Kérkis, with path-only
continuation for another thirty minutes to a pair of faintly frescoed cave-churches.
Panayía
Makriní
stands at the mouth of a high, wide but shallow grotto, whose balcony affords
terrific views. By contrast,
Ayía Triádha
, a ten-minute scramble overhead, has most of its
structure made up of cave wall; just adjacent, another long, narrow, volcanic cavern can be
explored with a torch some hundred metres into the mountain.
CLIMBING MOUNT KÉRKIS
The classic route up Mount Kérkis begins from Votsalákia, along the paved but narrow lane
leading inland towards Evangelistrías convent. After a 45-minute walk through olive groves,
the path begins, more or less following power lines up to the convent. A friendly nun may
proffer an ouzo and point you up the paint-marked trail, continuing even more steeply up to
the peak. The views are tremendous, though the climb itself is humdrum once you're out of
the trees. About an hour before the top there's a chapel with an attached cottage for
sheltering in emergencies, and just beyond, a welcome spring. All told, it's a seven-hour return
outing from Votsalákia, not counting rest stops.
