Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
Kímisis Theotókou
The Byzantine church of
Kímisis Theotókou
(left unlocked) is signposted 2.5km inland
along a partly paved road from Kondakéïka. The second oldest and most artistically
noteworthy on Sámos, dating from the late twelfth/early thirteenth century, it has
extensive frescoes contemporaneous with the building. The deceptively simple exterior
gives little hint of the glorious barrel-vaulted interior, its decoration still vivid except
where damp has blurred the images.
ACCOMMODATION, EATING AND DRINKING
THE NORTH COAST
mid-quay taverna, with some dishes such as steaks and
most fish exceeding €10. Still, a reasonable atmosphere
and
LEMONÁKIA AND TZAMADHOÚ
Arion
Lemonákia
T
22370 92020,
W
arion-hotel.gr.
This well-designed bungalow/hotel complex on a flattish
patch of hillside 600m inland from the coastal road has
dazzlingly white, minimalist
roo
ms and a large pool.
Breakfast included. May-Oct.
€100
Ì
Armonia Bay
Tzamadhoú
T
22730 92279,
W
armoniabay.gr.
This hotel directly above the beach has
tastefully decorated and sizeable rooms with marble-clad
baths, as well as a fine
poo
l and pleasant common areas.
Good value. April-Oct.
€75
lovely
setting.
April
to
early
Oct
daily
10am-midnight.
Daphne
T
22730 94003,
W
daphne-hotel.gr.
Set against
a leafy backdrop on a hill 500m back from the village, this
good-value hotel has smart but compact roo
ms w
ith baths
and great views. Breakfast included. May-Oct.
€50
Hotel Apartments Agios Konstantinos
T
22730
94000,
W
hotelagios.gr.
Attractive two-storey building
on the street linking Platanákia to the sea, with a red tile
roof. Its sea-facing rooms
are a
ll well equipped and have
small balconies. April-Oct.
€40
AVLÁKIA AND TZABOÚ
To Delfini
Avlákia
T
22730 94279.
Kyra Alexandra is the
heart and soul of this welcoming traditional taverna, in the
middle of the village, which is strong on fresh little fish,
hórta
and chips.
May-Oct daily 10am-1am.
ÁYIOS NIKÓLAOS
Iy Psaradhes
T
22730 32489.
With a terrace lapped by
the waves, you'll need to book in season to guarantee a fine
meal of fresh fish, salads and good barrelled wine.
Easter-
Oct daily 11am-1am.
Villa Eva
T
22730 30020,
W
villaeva-samos.gr.
This
hotel set in lush grounds, signposted downhill from the
main coastal road, is also a thriving New Age retreat centre,
with reiki, yoga and Sufi seminars.
Brea
kfast, jacuzzi and
exercise session included. May-Oct.
€85
ÁYIOS KONSTANDÍNOS
Aeolos
T
22730 94021.
Terrific fish or grilled meat for
€7-9 and a few daily oven dishes, served at tables
adjoining a tiny pebble cove at the far west end of the
esplanade.
May-Sept daily noon-midnight.
Akroyiali
T
22730 94655.
Quite pricey all-round
Northern hill villages
Inland between Kokkári and Kondakéïka, an idyllic landscape of pine, cypress and
orchards is overawed by dramatic mountains. Despite bulldozer vandalism, some of the
trail system linking the various
hill villages
is still intact, and walkers can return to the
main highway to catch a bus back to base. Those with transport should leave it at
Vourliótes and execute a
three-hour loop
via Manolátes, north and down to Aïdhónia,
then back up east to your starting point. There is some waymarking, and the final
stretch of trail has been rehabilitated.
Vourliótes
VOURLIÓTES
, closest village to Kokkári, has beaked chimneys and brightly painted
shutters sprouting from its typical tile-roofed houses. But restaurateur greed has ruined
the formerly photogenic central square by chopping down old mulberries and
cramming in more tables.
Manolátes
MANOLÁTES
, an hour-plus walk uphill from Vourliótes via a deep river canyon, has
several tavernas, as ever with inland locales better value than those at coastal resorts.
The two high-quality
raku
ceramic workshops are anything but cheap though.
