Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
metres inland from the jetty, with pleasant furnishin gs in
its eleven large rooms, most of which have balconies. €75
Hellenis Netiá T 22470 31275, W hotelhellinis
patmos.gr. This whitewashed 40-room hotel is very close
to the sea path (paved at this point) and just north of a new
yacht marina, and has bright, airy common areas, a lift
(rather superfluous for just two storeys) and better-than-
average rooms offering fridges, balconies and baths. The
same management has si x s uperior apartments in
contemporary style out back. €90
Maria Hokhlakás flatlands T 22470 31201,
W hotelmariapatmos.com. Quietly set small hotel, 150m
from the sea, where the pleasant front garden, a/c, lobby
internet facility and big sea- view balconies offset tiny
bathrooms. Breakfast included. €80
Ì Porto Scoutari Melóï hillside T 22470 33124,
W portoscoutari.com. Pátmos's premier hotel, this bungalow
complex overlooks the beach and islets. The common areas
and spacious a/c units, with TV and phone, are arrayed around
a large pool and small spa. Unparalleled personal service from
owner Elina Scoutari and her staff. Rates sh own a pply for stays
of two or more nights. Breakfast included. €126
Skala Hotel Skála T 22470 31343, W skalahotel.gr.
Smart, large, bougainvillea-drenched hotel, set a short
way back from the quayside in the heart of the village, and
accessed via a flowery gateway-gazebo. 78 comfortable
renov ated rooms, with sea-view balconies and a large
pool. €130
Studios Mathios Sápsila beach T 22470 32583,
W mathiosapartments.gr. Superior rural accommodation,
ranging from small studios to an entire house, beside an
unremarkable beach 2km southeast of Skála, with creative
decor and extensive gardens. Owner s Ia koumina and
Theologos are exceptionally welcoming. €60
EATING AND DRINKING
Benetos Sápsila beach T 22470 33089,
W benetosrestaurant.com. High-class Mediterranean
fusion, 2km southeast of Skála, with idyllic conservatory
seating and a menu encompassing the likes of smoked
sardine, bean and salmon croustade, astakomakaronádha
and decadent desserts; budget €35-40 for three courses
plus drink. Reservations recommended. Dinner only, June
to early Oct, Tues-Sun from 7.30pm.
Ostria Skála T 22470 33254. The food tends to be run-of-
the-mill at this central, mid-priced, year-round ouzerí, facing
the excursion-boat quay, but - late ferry arrivals take note -
it's the only place serving after 11pm. Daily 10am-late.
To Hiliomodhi Skála T 22470 34080. Cheap and crowded
ouzerí, a few metres from the waterfront at the start of the
road to Hóra, which offers vegetarian mezédhes (typically
€3) and seafood delicacies such as limpets (served live) or
grilled octopus (€7.50), plus decent hýma wine from Mégara.
There's outdoor seating at the back, in an unremarkable
pedestrian lane. Open all year. Daily noon-late.
Tzivaeri Skála T 22470 31170. Quality outfit, facing
Theológos town beach a short walk along the quayside
from the excursion boats, featuring delicate Cretan-style
mezédhes and seafood such as boiled or grilled octopus
(€8.50). As well as the enticing tables on the beach itself,
seating is on the upstairs sea-view veranda, and there's live
music courtesy of the owner in the large room inside.
Dinner only, from 6pm nightly all year.
Ì Vegghera Skála T 22470 32988, W patmosweb
.gr/vegghera.htm. The best all-rounder, opposite the
yacht marina, with flawlessly presented stuffed scorpion
fish, vegetarian or seafood salads, superb desserts, and
per-head bills of €40-45 plus drink. It's the last place you
come to as you walk north from the port. Reservations
recommended. Easter to early Sept, daily 7.30pm-late.
8
NIGHTLIFE
Café Arion T 22470 31595. This appealing wood-
panelled, barn-like place, in the centre of the quayside, is
Pátmos's most durable café-bar; all sorts sit outside, dance
inside or prop up the long bar. Daily 9am-late.
Koukoumavla Konsoláta T 22470 32325. The “Owl” is a
perennially popular, hippy-ish bar near the foot of the main
road up to Hóra. Run by a friendly Italian-Greek couple, it
has garden seating, wacky decor and live music, and sells
crafts as well as snacks and drinks. Daily noon-late.
Apokálypsis monastery
Daily 8am-1.30pm, also Tues, Thurs & Sun 4-6pm • Free
A ten-minute walk up the hill from Skála, halfway to Hóra, the Apokálypsis monastery
is built around the cave where St John heard the voice of God issuing from a cleft in
the rock, and where he sat dictating to his disciple Prohoros. he cave itself, of course,
was once open to the elements, but it's now enclosed within an eleventh-century
chapel. In a recess in the rock, the place where the saint is said to have rested his head
at night is fenced off and outlined in beaten silver. Only if you come first thing in the
morning, before the cacophonous tour groups arrive, can you hope to get a sense of the
contemplative peace that inspired St John.
 
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