Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
stopover with yachties, and can also be reached by taxi-boats from Póthia. It's a very
scenic spot, with tiny little Christian basilicas perched on the cliffs to either side, while
the total lack of a beach keeps the crowds down. This safe anchorage has been in use
since Neolithic times; several caves show signs of ancient occupation.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
VATHÝS AND RÍNA
Galini Hotel Restaurant
Rína
T
22430 31241,
W
galinihotelvathikalymnou.com.
Of the three similar,
largely open-air seafood restaurants clustered around the
harbour at Rína, only the friendly
Galina
also doubles as a
hotel, chargi
ng b
argain B&B rates for its clean, simple sea-
view rooms.
€30
Northern Kálymnos
Fringed with wildflowers, and backed by mighty cliffs, it's great
hiking
and
climbing
territory.
Emboriós
at road's end makes a great overnight stop, or you can simply
complete a round-island car or scooter tour by heading inland from
Aryinónda
, further
south, and making your way back to Póthia via Vathýs (see p.576).
Aryinónda to Emboriós
ARYINÓNDA
itself, 5km beyond Massoúri at the head of its own deeply indented bay,
has a clean pebble beach, plus a couple of small tavernas. Keep heading north along the
west coast from here to find several more splendid, isolated beaches, including
Áyios
Nikólaos
and
Kalamiés
. The village of
EMBORIÓS
, at the end of the bus line 20km out
from Póthia, is a pretty little spot that offers a reasonable gravel-and-sand beach, and a
scattering of apartments and tavernas. The little jetty in the middle is served by
excursion boats from Myrtiés, which only run when demand is high enough.
A hundred metres beyond Emboriós, reached by a detour inland of the church, the
next cove along holds the similar, goat-patrolled
Asprokykliá
beach
. Follow the rough
dirt track above Asprokykliá to the isthmus by the fish farm, then walk fifteen
minutes north on path and track to reach
Aptíki
, a smallish but perfectly formed
pea-gravel cove.
8
Paliónissos and around
From Skália, 1km or so short of Emboriós, a newly paved road - signposted only in
Greek - switchbacks up the west flank of the island and back down the other side. A
steep but safe 5km drive, it stops short of the eastern shoreline, leaving visitors to walk
the final couple of hundred metres along a rough track.
Set at the head of another extravagantly indented fjord-like bay, the yacht anchorage
of
Paliónissos
is more usually reached by excursion boats from Rína (see p.576). It
boasts an ample crescent of shingle beach, with a taverna to either side.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
NORTHERN KÁLYMNOS
Ì
Harry's Paradise
Emboriós
T
22430 40062,
W
harrys-paradise.gr.
This lovely taverna, set behind
gorgeous flower-filled gardens a short walk from the
beach, serves delicious home-cooked traditional food for
all meals, using produce from their own fields. Their small
hotel annex alongside offers simple but great-value air-
conditioned en-suite studios, each individually themed
and equipped with a kitchenette and balcony, and they
rent out a slightly more expensive
ren
ovated cottage.
Closed Dec-March.
Daily 9am-9pm.
€45
The west coast
The mountainous headland that fills Kálymnos's southwest corner is largely inaccessible
to visitors. From the moment the island's
west coast
can be reached by road, however,
the shoreline is lined by a succession of small beach communities. Although several set
out to turn themselves into beach resorts around the turn of the millennium, only
Myrtiés
and
Massoúri
have thrived enough to make worthwhile bases.
