Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
from 350 BC but closely conforming to modern depictions of angels, to a colossal
funerary pithos (urn) from the sixth century BC. Stelae in the downstairs galleries
reveal a Christian presence on the island in the third century.
Paleókastro
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From the Langadháki district, beneath the cliffs at the west end of the Mandhráki
waterfront, a well-signposted twenty-minute walk climbs up to the hugely impressive
Paleókastro , a mighty ancient fortress that's one of the most underrated ancient sites
in Greece.
On its way up, the path through the fields passes numerous ancient stairways and
ruins. Once you meet a cement road - also accessible on a much more circuitous
drive up from town - turn right and you're confronted by massive black
fortifications. This hilltop was occupied from the eighth century BC onwards.
Around four centuries later, Mausolus of Halicarnassus, the Persian satrap who left
us the word “mausoleum”, enclosed its inland slopes within 3m-thick walls - the
cliffs on the seaward side already formed a natural boundary. If you think of ancient
Greek ruins as all graceful white marble columns, this is something different - much
older and vaster. Slotted chinklessly together, the colossal trapezoid blocks are
reminiscent of Inca masonry. Only the barest outlines of the buildings within the
enclosure survive, but visitors can clamber onto the ramparts by means of broad
staircases to either side of the still-intact gateway.
ACCOMMODATION
8
MANDHRÁKI
Haritos T 22420 31322. Small hotel, a short walk from
the ferry landing; head left along the coast road rather than
towards town. Its eleven rooms have marble-trimmed baths
and veneer floors, while the seafront across the road ho lds a
terrace restaurant and a hot-spring pool. Open all year. €60
Porfyris T 22420 31376, W porfyris-nisyros.com.
Large, somewhat old-fashioned hotel, well back from the
sea in the town centre, overlooking the common orchards.
Most of the 38 spruce a/c rooms have sea views from
private balconies and terraces, and t her e's also a large
swimming pool and breakfast terrace. €65
Romantzo T 22420 31340, W nisyros-romantzo.gr.
Good-value family-run hotel, up to the left of the ferry jetty
out of sight of the town, with simple but comfortable a/c
en-suite rooms and apartments. While the rooms
themselves have rear-view windows, all benefit from the
broad, sh ared and very pleasant sea-view terrace on the
first floor. €35
Ì Ta Liotridia T 22420 31580, E liotridia@
nisyrosnet.gr. Two incongruously gorgeous suites, above a
rough-and-ready bar just metres from the sea on the
oceanfront footpath in the centre of town. Exposed stone
walls, incorporating lava boulders; fine woode n furn ishings;
and head-on sea views. Each sleeps up to four. €150
Xenon Polyvotis T 22420 31011 . Municipally owned
hotel, on the quayside facing the ferry port; its en-suite
rooms are large but utterly unremarka ble, but there's no
faulting the sea views. June-Sept only. €60
EATING AND DRINKING
Irini Platía Ilikiomenis T 22420 31365. Lively
restaurant, in a busy little tree-shaded square, inland at the
west end of town, that's all but entirely filled with bar and
taverna tables. Hearty traditional dishes like aubergine and
mince, or pepper stuffed with rice for €6-8. In truth the
food isn't exceptional, but it's a convivial and involving
place to spend an evening. Daily lunch & dinner.
Kali Katsou Cheap and cheerful local specialities poised
immediately above the water on the quayside, including
seafood such as mussels or squid as well as tasty island
sausages for just €6. Daily lunch & dinner.
Kleanthis T 22420 31484. The best seafood restaurant
along the waterfront, with bright blue tables and chairs set
out on the quayside, and busy for lunch and dinner. Tasty
pittiá (chickpea croquettes) and other mezes, followed by
fish dishes ranging from fried shrimps for €8 up to stuffed
squid with cheese or swordfish for €16. Daily lunch &
dinner.
Proveza T 22420 31618, W proveza.net. Lively café-bar
with extensive comfortable seating on the seafront
promenade near Ta Liotridia . Besides being great for a
sunset drink, with an appropriate soundtrack, it also offers
free wi-fi and a row of internet-access computers indoors.
Daily 11am-late.
FROM TOP CHAPEL ON KOS (P.560); EVIL EYE; SPONGE SELLER, KÁLYMNOS (P.574) >
 
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