Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cluster of pastel-coloured tables and chairs in a
harbourfront nook, plus cushions on the seawall itself -
people go swimming right here. The wi-fi access reaches to
the quayside, while there's a computer inside. Proper
Italian espresso and tasty tidbits, and a lively late-night
scene. Daily 11am-1am or later.
Evoi Evan Yialós platía. With a large terrace sprawling
beneath the spreading ficus trees, and a cavernous interior
that includes a pool table upstairs, Evoi Evan is open from
breakfast onwards, serving coffee, smoothies and juices first
thing, and a full drinks menu later on. Daily 8am-late.
Kalí Stráta Horió. The perfect place for a (pricey) sunset
cocktail, with its canvas chairs and comfy cushions arrayed
where the Kalí Stráta makes its final right-angle bend
before reaching Horió. The best views on the island, with a
jazz/world soundtrack. Daily noon until late.
Lefteris Top of the Kalí Stráta, Horió. The local
characters' kafenío , in the second shopfront on Platía
Syllógou, and attended by all. Coffee or ice cream at any
hour; also simple mezédhes.
Nikolas Yialós. The first-ever zaharoplastío on the island,
tucked into a back alley just south of Yialós bridge, and still
the only one making its sweeties on site rather than
importing from Rhodes. They also have a freezer-full of the
best ice cream on the island.
The Olive Tree Horió T 22460 72683, W olivetreesymi
.eu. Friendly English-run café, across from the Fiona hotel
(see p.546), that's a meeting place for energetic local
expats. Top-quality coffee, really well-priced juices and
smoothies using island fruits and Greek yoghurt,
sandwiches (including to go), big healthy breakfasts. Also
open for dinner on Saturdays in spring and autumn. Daily
8am-3pm.
Ì Pahos Yialós. Classic kafenío , in operation since World
War II. Facing the west quay south of Yialós bridge, it's still
the spot for an evening ouzo or coffee and people-
watching. Pahos himself has retired and can often be found
sitting out front as a customer; otherwise it's hardly
changed - including the prices, significantly lower than
elsewhere. Daily 8am-late.
Sunrise Café/Anatoli Iliou Horió. Cosy English/
German-run café, near the windmill on the eastern edge of
Horió. Well-priced drinks, breakfasts, good salads and light
snacks. Open all day until the small hours.
8
The rest of the island
Away from Sými Town, the only other settlements on the island are little Pédhi , on the
shoreline below Horió, and Panormítis down at the southern tip. The main attractions
for visitors are isolated pebbly beaches that stand at the heads of the deeply indented
bays along the eastern coast - accessible by taxi-boat in summer - and the tiny
scattered monasteries that make great targets for hikers.
Pédhi
The hugely indented bay lying south of Sými Town, on the far side of the ridge that
stretches away from Horió, is home to the separate little community of PÉDHI .
Somewhat further than it may look from Horió - it takes about half an hour to walk
down the hillside - it's served by regular buses.
Originally a fishing hamlet with a sideline in boatbuilding, Pédhi has slowly expanded
over the past twenty years. Much of the waterfront is now lined with new houses built
in the standard Italian-influenced Sými style. Even if there's nothing authentic about it,
it's reasonably pretty; locals fear the construction of an ugly new marina may spoil
things, but there's been little progress so far. While the waterfront holds a hotel and a
couple of tavernas, Pédhi doesn't have a beach.
Ayía Marína
A small indentation in the headland that separates Sými Town from Pédhi Bay, known
as Ayía Marína , has been developed as a miniature beach. With wonderful turquoise
water, and a monastery-capped islet within easy swimming distance just offshore, it's an
attractive spot, but in summer it tends to fill up (largely with Italians) the moment the
day's first taxi boat arrives. The waterfront is an unbroken row of sunbeds, and the one
taverna does a brisk trade.
It's possible to beat the crowds by walking here, either along a paint-splodge-marked
path from Pédhi or over the top of the ridge from the east end of Horió, but the best
time to hike is in low season, when the taxi boats aren't running and you may have the
place to yourself.
 
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