Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
minuscule beach, and holds several welcoming tavernas. In summer, excursion boats
head across from here to Kássos.
Lefkos
To reach the attractive resort of LEFKÓS - also known as Paralía Lefkoú - take a side
turning that drops back down from the main road as it climbs through the dense forest
around 10km north of Finíki. While considerably more developed than Finíki, it started
out as a fishing village. Its best tavernas are concentrated around the harbour, which also
holds a great sheltered beach, and accommodation is plentiful too. Several more beaches
lie nearby, separated by a striking topography of cliffs, islets and sandspits.
Mesohóri
The main road climbs northeast from Lefkos through the pine forest to the
dramatically sited village of MESOHÓRI . Tumbling seaward along narrow, stepped alleys,
Mesohóri comes to a halt at the edge of a bluff that's dotted with three tiny, ancient
chapels, separated from the village proper by extensive orchards.
ACCOMMODATION
THE WEST
Arhontiko Studios Finíki T 22450 61473, W hotel
arhontiko.gr. Simple, well-run hotel on the main coast
road just above Finíki, where all six comfortable s tudi os
and six larger apartments have sea-view balconies. €60
Finiki View Hotel Finíki T 22450 61400,
W finikiview.gr. Pleasant modern hotel, dropping down
towards the port from the coast road. Eighteen well-
equipped studios and two apartments, set in attractive
gardens and shari ng u se of a pool. Great views at sunset.
Closed Nov-April. €70
Glaros Áyios Nikólaos, Arkássa T 22450 61015,
W glarosrestaurant-karpathos.com. Classic little beach
taverna beside one of Kárpathos' nicest beaches, run by
returned Karpathian-Virginians. Good open-air dining, plus
five tastefully furnished, good-value studios. €60
Hotel Krinos Lefkos T 22450 71410, W hotel-krinos
.com. Low-rise complex, just before the road reaches the
centre of town, that's especially popular with returning
German guests. All its mix of rooms, studios and
apartments are en suit e and have either balcony or terrace.
Closed Nov-April. €55
Ì Pine Tree Ádhia T 697 73 69 948, W pinetree
-karpathos.gr. Simple but very attractive and inexpensive
rooms in an utterly gorgeous rural location, a short walk up
the hillside from the Pine Tree Restaurant (see below), and
enjoying long-range sea views. There's also a lovely stand-
alone studio, complete with traditio nal sleeping platform,
a little higher up, and free camping. €35
8
EATING AND DRINKING
Dhramoundana 1 Mesohóri T 22450 71373. The finest
eating option in this hillside village, but fiendishly difficult
to find; it's near the church of Panayía Vryssianí, low down
at the far north end. A couple of outdoor tables enjoy
fabulous views, but the food indoors is the main attraction,
featuring capers, sausages, home-made dolmadhes and
marinated “sardines”. Daily lunch & dinner.
Dhramoundana 2 Lefkos T 22450 71373. The pick of
the three restaurants grouped together at the western end
of Lefkos's harbour is slap in the middle. Its friendly owner,
whose wife runs the sister restaurant Dhramoundana 1 (see
above), is a Greek-American who lived in Baltimore -
hence the fabulous crab cakes. Daily lunch & dinner.
Marina Finíki T 22450 61100. Finíki's finest waterfront
taverna, with a shady patio right by the beach. €5 buys a
quarter chicken, otherwise most meat and fish dishes cost
€8, though you'll pay more when there's fresh lobster. Live
Greek music on summer evenings. Daily 9am-late.
Pine Tree Restaurant Ádhia T 697 73 69 948,
W pinetree-karpathos.gr. Delightful restaurant, set amid
orchards and lush gardens in an isolated spot, just up from
the sea, 7km north of Finíki. Relax on the flower-decked
terrace and sample such delights as home-baked bread,
lentil soup and octopus makaronádha (plus other
mayireftá ), washed down by sweet Óthos wine. Daily
noon-9pm.
The centre
Central Kárpathos supports a group of villages blessed with commanding hillside
settings, ample running water and a cool climate, even in August. Nearly everyone here
has “done time” in North America before returning home with their nest eggs; the area
is said to have the highest per capita income in Greece.
 
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