Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACCOMMODATION
FRÝ
Angelica's
T
22450 41268,
W
angelicas.gr.
Four bright,
roomy kitchenette apartments in a converted mansion
200m above Boúka harbour, with traditional furnishings,
and, courtesy of the owner's mother, some rather
extraordinary loor-painti
ngs.
All have outside space, but
only two enjoy sea views.
€50
Ì
Evita Village
T
22450 41731,
W
evita-village.gr.
Small complex of five impeccable and very spacious modern
studios, 200m uphill from Emboriós, with co
mfor
table new
furnishings and plenty of room to spread out.
€60
Fantasis Apartments
T
22450 41695,
W
fantasis
-hotel.gr.
Six plain en-suite rooms, four equipped with
sea-view balconies, in a prominent yellow-trimmed
modern structur
e iv
e minutes' climb up from the port
towards Panayía.
€40
Flisvos
T
22450 41284.
Very basic hotel, right on the
seafront 150m beyond the harbour towards Emboriós. All
rooms are e
n sui
te with sea-view balconies, and share use
of a kitchen.
€50
EATING AND DRINKING
Iy Orea Bouka
Summer-only taverna with a small
terrace overlooking the port at Boúka, and a good range
of inventive and tasty Kassiot dishes, which you select by
visiting the kitchen.
June-Sept only, daily lunch &
dinner.
O Mylos
T
22450 41825.
Frý's finest full-service taverna,
overlooking the ferry port, is also the only one that stays
open year-round. Excellent food, with a selection of slow-
cooked
mayireftá
at lunch, and grilled meat or fish by night.
Daily lunch & dinner.
Taverna Emborios
T
22450 41586,
W
emborios.com.
This lively and very welcoming taverna, facing the
eponymous cove, is renowned for its fresh-caught seafood,
supplemented with hand-picked local herbs and
vegetables.
Summer only, daily 11am-2am.
To Koutouki
T
22450 41545.
This bustling little place,
up the steps from the quayside at Boúka, deserves its
reputation for sizeable servings of old-fashioned Greek
cooking; succulent lamb is the house speciality.
June-Sept
only, daily lunch & dinner.
8
Ayía Marína and around
Several villages are scattered around the edges of the agricultural plain inland from Frý,
linked to each other by road; all can be toured on foot in a single day. Larger and yet
more rural than Frý,
AYÍA MARÍNA
, 1500m inland and uphill, is best admired from the
south, arrayed above olive groves; its two belfried churches are the focus of lively
festivals
, on July 16-17 and September 13-14. Fifteen minutes beyond the hamlet of
Kathístres
, a further 500m southwest, the cave of
Ellinokamára
has a late Classical,
polygonal wall blocking the entrance; it may have been a cult shrine or tomb complex.
Ayíou Yeoryíou Hadhión
Between Ayía Marína and Arvanitohóri, a paved road veers southwest towards the rural
monastery of
Ayíou Yeoryíou Hadhión
. The entire route is 12km, and best tackled by
scooter. Once you've skirted the dramatic gorge early on, you're unlikely to see another
living thing aside from goats, sheep or an occasional falcon. Soon the Mediterranean
appears; when you reach a fork, take the upper, right-hand turning, following the
phone lines. Cistern water is always available in the monastery grounds, which only
come to life around the April 23 festival.
Kárpathos
Despite being the third-largest Dodecanese island, poised halfway between Rhodes and
Crete, long, narrow
KÁRPATHOS
has always been a wild and underpopulated backwater.
The island's usually cloud-capped mountainous spine
,
which rises to over 1200m,
divides it into two very distinct sections - the low-lying
south
, with its pretty bays and
long beaches, and the exceptionally rugged
north
, where deeply traditional villages nest
atop towering cliffs. If you prefer to stay in a sizeable town, then
Pigádhia
on the east
coast, Kárpathos's capital and largest port, is a good choice, with a wide range of hotels
