Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
appealing semicircular bay of
Stegná
, where for once no large hotels lurk behind the
fine-gravel shore, just some relatively tasteful apartment complexes.
Haráki and around
Haráki
is a very likeable little crescent bay, overlooked by the stubby ruins of
Feraklós
castle
, the last Knights' citadel to fall to the Turks. There's no road along
the shoreline, just a walkway beside a part pebble, part grey-sand
beach
that's
backed by a solid row of small two- or three-storey studios, interspersed with the
occasional café. It couldn't really be called a port, or a village, but it's a nice
self-contained enclave.
The long straight shoreline south of Haráki is lined with beaches of sand and fine
gravel, such as
Paralía Kaláthou
. It ends after 8km, just short of Líndhos, at the little
cove of
Vlyhá
, which holds a couple of enormous hotels.
ACCOMMODATION
THE EAST COAST
Atrium Palace
Paralía Kaláthou
T
22440 31601,
W
atrium.gr.
Surprisingly unobtrusive despite its 300-plus
luxurious rooms, this upscale hotel is one of the few
developments on Kaláthou Beach, not far north of Líndhos.
Its expensively landscaped grounds are dotted with pools,
and the lawns extend down to the beach; the remote
r villa
wings, towards the spa, are best. Closed Nov-March.
€180
Haraki Village
Haráki
T
694 63 50 401,
W
haraki
village.gr.
Eight little pastel-coloured studios and
apartments, all with balconies or outd
oor sp
ace, at the
north end of the beach below the castle.
€100
Lindos Blu
Vlyhá
T
22440 32110,
W
lindosblu.gr.
Ver y
opulent, very stylish modern resort hotel, tumbling down
the slopes of a pretty bay immediately north of Líndhos,
with a spa, infinity pools, and on-site restaurants. All
seventy units have sea views, and are intended for adults
only - villas/maisonettes h
ave p
rivate pools. Minimum
stay 4 nights in high season.
€420
Panorama B&B
Stegná
T
22440 22516,
W
stegna.gr.
Laidback B&B, in a peaceful setting a short walk back from
Stegná beach, with simple good
-valu
e a/c studios and
rooms and a breezy shared terrace.
€50
8
EATING AND DRINKING
Argo Restaurant
Haráki
T
694 63 51 410.
Behind its
weathered, custard-yellow exterior, this seafront
restaurant, squeezed among the toothy rocks at the
southern end of Haráki beach, is surprisingly smart, and
serves a good Greek menu, with mussels, chicken or shrimp
main dishes priced at €8-12, with views across to the
castle thrown in.
Daily noon-10pm.
Ì
To Periyiali
Stegná
T
22440 23444.
The best
taverna in Stegná, down by the fish anchorage. Greeks
flock here for seafood, hand-cut round chips, home-made
yaprákia
and substantial salads (“Periyali” has caper greens
and grilled aubergine) washed down by good bulk wine;
the travertine-clad loos must be the wackiest, yet most
charming, on the island.
Daily lunch & dinner.
Líndhos
Set on a stark headland 50km south of Rhodes Town,
LÍNDHOS
is almost too good to
be true. A classic Greek village of crazily stacked whitewashed houses, poised between a
stupendous castle-topped acropolis above and sandy crescent beaches below, it's the
island's number-two tourist attraction. Inevitably, it's so tightly packed with
day-trippers in summer that you can barely breathe, let alone move along its impossibly
narrow lanes. Almost all its immaculately whitewashed houses have long since been
bought up by foreigners; most of those along the ancient agora, or serpentine main
alleyway, are now run as restaurants, cafés and souvenir stores, while discreetly
advertised rental properties lie to either side.
Arrive outside peak season, or if that's not possible at least in the early morning, and
strolling through the village is still hugely atmospheric. The belfried, post-Byzantine
Panayía church
(Mon-Sat 9am-3pm & 6.30-8pm, Sun 9am-3pm) is covered inside
with well-preserved eighteenth-century frescoes. The most imposing
medieval captains'
residences
are built around
votsalotó
courtyards, their monumental doorways often
fringed by intricate stone braids or cables supposedly corresponding in number to the
fleet owned.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
RHODES OLD TOWN (P.514); FRESCO, PÁTMOS (SEE P.588); RESTAURANT IN SKÁLA, PÁTMOS (P.586) >
