Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
point (the
sidherespórtes
or “iron gates”), one can practically touch both tortured rock
faces at once and, looking up, see them rising sheer for well over 300m.
At an average pace, with regular stops, the walk down takes between five and seven
hours (though you can do it quicker); beware of the kilometre markers: these mark
only distances within the
National Park
and it's a further 2km of hot walking before
your reach the sea at
Ayía Rouméli
. On the way down there is plenty of water from
springs and streams, but nothing to eat. The park that surrounds the gorge is a refuge
of the Cretan wild ibex, the
krí-krí
, but don't expect to see one; there are usually far too
many people around.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE THE SAMARIÁ GORGE
Tours to Samariá Gorge run from virtually everywhere on the island. The gorge walk ends on the south coast at Ayía
Rouméli; from here you need to take a boat to Hóra Sfakíon, Soúyia or Paleóhora (see p.502) then catch a connecting bus.
Return bus journeys are timed to coincide with the ferries and will wait for them - theoretically, no one gets left behind.
7
By bus
From Haniá (4 daily at 6.15am, 7.30am, 8.30am &
2pm); from Soúyia (Mon, Wed, Sat; 6.15am); from
Paleóhora (Mon, Wed, Sat; 7am).
ACCOMMODATION
Wardens ensure that no one remains in the gorge overnight, where camping is strictly forbidden. The nearest
accommodation is at Omalós where you'll find the hotels listed below. Both have tavernas and also offer lifts to the top of
the gorge in the morning if you stay overnight.
Hotel Gingilos
T
28210 67181.
Slightly cheaper than
the neighbouring
Neos Omalos
hotel and also very
friendly. Mod
ern
en-suite rooms come with bath and
balcony view.
€30
Hotel Neos Omalos
T
28210 67269,
W
neos-omalos
.gr.
This is perhaps the best hotel; en-suite rooms all have
balcony
with
views of the Lefká Óri, TV and central
heating.
€35
Omalós
OMALÓS
lies in the middle of the mountain plain from which the Samariá gorge
descends. The climate is cooler here all year round and the many paths into the hills
surrounding the plateau are a welcome bonus; in season a profusion of wild flowers and
birdlife is to be seen. There are plenty of
tavernas
and some surprisingly fancy
rooms
with all facilities, should you want to stay overnight to get an early start into the gorge.
Another significant advantage to staying up here would be if you wanted to undertake
some other
climbs
in the White Mountains; the
Kallérgi mountain
hut
(
T
28210 33199
or 697 34 00 777; €12 per person) is about ninety minutes' hike (signed) from Omalós
or the top of the gorge.
The southwest coast
The ancient capital of the Sfakiá region,
Hóra Sfakíon
, lies 70km south of Haniá,
reached via a spectacular twisting asphalted road over the mountains. It's the main
terminus for gorge walkers, with a regular boat service west along the coast to
Ayía
Rouméli
and
Loutro
, which are accessible only by foot or boat.
Frangokastello
, with its
castle fortress and sandy
beaches
, lies a few kilometres east of Hóra Sfakíon, along the
coastal road. Other main routes south over the mountains from Haniá are those to the
small town of
Paleóhora
(from the north-coast highway at Tavronítis) and to the
laidback seaside village of Soúyia (via Alikianós on the Omalós road).
Hóra Sfakíon
HÓRA SFAKÍON
sees thousands of people passing through daily; those who have walked
Samariá Gorge come striding, or staggering, off the boat from Ayía Rouméli to pile
onto onward buses or waiting coaches. Relatively few stay, although there are plenty of
