Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ì Kali Kardia Kournás T 28250 96278. This is a
wonderful, simple but popular place. Sample the local
lamb (€7) and loukánika (sausages), accompanied by fresh
home-grown salad. All the produce is their own. May-Oct
daily 10am-late, Nov-April weekends only.
Taverna Mathes Mathés T 28250 61514. This peaceful
place offers great terrace views over the bay of Yeoryioúpoli.
Good food with traditional dishes, many made from their
own produce. May-Oct daily 10am-late.
with a large terrace garden, home-cooked Greek and
Cretan dishes such as lamb stifado and pork with peppers
(€8). May-Oct daily 7pm-late.
LAKE KOURNÁS
Eye of the Lake The lakeside view here is peaceful and
the food is good; fresh starters and salads, grilled meats
and home-cooked dishes. Well frequented by locals. May-
Oct daily 10am-late, Nov-Apr weekends only.
South from Réthymnon
There are a couple of alternative routes south from Réthymnon, but the main one
heads straight out from the centre of town, an initially featureless road due south across
the middle of the island towards the south coast and Ayía Galíni . About 23km out, a
turning cuts of to the right for Plakiás and Mýrthios , following the course of the
spectacular Kourtaliótiko ravine.
7
Plakiás
PLAKIÁS is an established, yet still quite low-key, resort with a satisfactory beach and a
string of good tavernas around the dock. Relax and soak up the atmosphere, or if you're
looking for walks there's plenty to explore along the coastline and inland. Some of the
most tempting beaches in central Crete hide just to the east of Plakiás, though
unfortunately they're now a very poorly kept secret. These three splashes of yellow sand,
divided by rocky promontories, are within walking distance (40min) and together go
by the name Dhamnóni .
Mýrthios
For a stay of more than a day or two, MÝRTHIOS , in the hills just behind Plakiás, also
deserves consideration. There are some great apartments and wonderful views, and
you'll generally find locals still outnumbering the tourists. It takes twenty minutes to
walk down to the beach at Plakiás, a little longer to Dhamnóni.
Préveli monastery
April & May daily 9am-7pm; June-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm, Sun 9am-7pm; in winter, knock for admission • €3 •
W preveli.org
PRÉVELI , lying some 7km southeast of Plakiás, takes its name from the monastery set
high above the sea which, like every other in Crete, has a proud history of resistance, in
this case accentuated by its role in World War II as a shelter for marooned Allied
soldiers awaiting evacuation. There are fine views and a new monument
commemorating the rescue operations and depicting a startling life-size, rifle-toting
abbot and an Allied soldier cast in bronze.
Préveli “Palm Beach”
Préveli “ Palm Beach ” is a sandy cove with a small date-palm grove (recovering from
fire damage in 2010) where an estuary feeds a little oasis. Although beautiful, the
beach is often crowded with day-trip boats from Plakiás and Ayía Galíni. The
turn-off for the beach is the newly asphalted road 1km before Préveli monastery (if
travelling by bus you'll be dropped at this junction). This leads to a pay car park
(€2) from where the beach is accessed via a steep climb down a path over the rocks
(about a 10min descent and a sweaty 20min haul back up). Another path from the
east side of the beach follows the river valley 2km back to a stone bridge, by the
main road, where there are cafés.
FROM TOP LOUTRÓ (P.502); IRÁKLION ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (P.452) >
 
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