Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Pýrgos
As you drive west of Kamári towards
PÝRGOS
you can't miss the sight of
Panayía Episkopí
,
the most important Byzantine monument on the island. Built in the eleventh century, it
was the setting of centuries of conflict between Orthodox Greeks and Catholics, but is
most notable today for its carved iconostasis of light blue marble with a white grain.
Further west, Pýrgos is one of the oldest settlements on the island, a jumble of
weather-beaten houses and alleys that form several concentric circles around the village
kástro. It climbs to another Venetian fortress crowned by the seventeenth-century
church of the
Presentation of the Virgin
. You can clamber around the battlements for
sweeping views over the entire island and its Aegean neighbours.
EATING AND DRINKING
6
PÝRGOS
Kallisti
Pýrgos
T
22860 34108.
If you can't get a table at
Selene
(see below), worry not. This cosy, covered taverna on
the main square has excellent cheap food and a tradition of
good service; its lamb casserole (€6) literally melts in the
mouth.
April-Oct daily noon-midnight
.
Ì
Selene
Pýrgos
T
22860 22249,
W
selene.gr.
Santorini's most famous restaurant, awarded Greece's top
gastronomic accolade in 2011, has moved to Pýrgos from
Firá, but still serves delicious, inventive food. Choose from
dishes such as rabbit confit, piglet cheeks, cuttlefish in its
own ink, vegetable risotto with feta powder (all around
€20-€30) or the taster menu from €60 per person. Booking
essential.
April-Oct daily noon-11pm.
Akrotíri and the south coast
Evidence of the Minoan colony that once thrived here has been uncovered at the
ancient site of Minoan Thira at
AKROTÍRI
(closed since 2005; check with the Museum
THE ARCHIPELAGO
The best and most popular day-trip from Firá is to the three islands of the inner archipelago.
Most people stick to the still volcanically active Paleá and Néa Kaméni, although, if you have
time, it is worth staying overnight in Thirassía for a glimpse of what Santoríni used to feel like
before the cruise ships arrived.
PALEÁ AND NÉA KAMÉNI
Local ferries from either Skála Firás or Ía (Ammoúdhi), venture to the charred volcanic islets of
Paleá Kaméni
(active 46-1458 AD) and
Néa Kaméni
(active 1707-1950). At Paleá Kaméni
you can swim from the boat to warm mineral-laden springs, while Néa Kaméni (€2 entrance
fee), with its own mud-clouded hot springs, features a demanding hike to a smouldering,
volcanically active crater.
THIRASSÍA
The boat excursions also continue to the relatively unspoilt islet of
Thirassía
(
W
thirasia.gr),
which was once part of Santoríni until sliced off by an eruption in the third century BC. It's an
excellent destination, except during the tour-boat rush of lunch hour. At other times, the
island is one of the quietest in the Cyclades, with views as dramatic as any on Santoríni. The
downside is that there is no proper beach and the tavernas in Kórfos close early after the last
ferry has gone. There is an ATM at the Citizen's Service o
ce (KEP) and credit cards are
normally not accepted on the island.
Tour boats head for the village of
Kórfos
, a stretch of shingle backed by fishermen's houses and
high cliffs while ferries dock at
Ríva
. There should be no problem taking a car or rental bike over,
but fill up with petrol first. From Kórfos a steep, stepped path climbs up to
Manolás
, nearly 200m
above, where donkeys are still used for transport. Manolás straggles along the edge of the caldera,
an attractive small village that gives an idea of what Santoríni was like before tourism arrived there.
ACCOMMODATION
Zacharo Rooms
Manolás
T
22860 29102.
All
rooms have a/c, private bathroom and TV with amazing
views over both Manolás, Kórfos an
d Sa
ntoríni itself.
No credit cards accepted. Easter-Oct.
€45
