Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACCOMMODATION
ÁNO MERIÁ AND AROUND
Blue Sand
Angáli
T
22860 41042,
W
bluesand.gr.
A three-star boutique option in this well-connected beach
with white, minimalist undulating staircases and rooms
with verandas offering mesm
erizing
sea views. Free wi-fi
and port transfers. May-Sept.
€120
EATING AND DRINKING
The best eating options lie at the end of the bus line at Taxiárhis.
6
Profítis Ilías Bakery
At Profítis Ilías, a well-concealed,
yet signposted, bakery is along a short lane to the left of
the road. It offers the local cheese-and-onion pie called
kalasoúna
for €2.
Mon-Sat 8am-3pm.
Synandisi
T
22860 41208.
A taverna at the last but
one bus stop in Áno Meriá with a bit of everything: fresh
fish, home-grown vegetables and hotpots of local meat
such as rabbit, goat or chicken (€9). This is the easiest
place to find and try the local
kalasoúna
pies.
May-Sept
10am-midnight.
Santoríni
As the ferry manoeuvres into the great caldera of
SANTORÍNI (Thíra)
, the land seems to
rise up and clamp around it. Gaunt, sheer cliffs loom hundreds of metres above the
deep blue sea, nothing grows or grazes to soften the awesome view, and the only
colours are the reddish-brown, black and grey pumice layers on the cliff face of
Santoríni, the largest island in this mini-archipelago. The landscape tells of a history so
dramatic and turbulent that legend hangs as fact upon it.
These apocalyptic events, though, scarcely concern modern tourists, who come here
to take in the spectacular views, stretch out on the island's dark-sand beaches and
absorb the peculiar, infernal geographic features. The tourism industry has changed
traditional island life, creating a rather expensive playground. There is one time-
honoured local industry, however, that has benefited from all the outside attention:
wine
. Santoríni is one of Greece's most important producers, and the fresh, dry white
wines it is known for (most from the
assýrtiko
grape for which the region is known)
are the perfect accompaniment to the seafood served in the many restaurants and
tavernas that hug the island's cliffs.
Brief history
From as early as 3000 BC, Ancient Thíra developed as a sophisticated outpost of
Minoan civilization, until sometime between 1650-1600 BC when catastrophe
struck: the volcano-island erupted some 60 cubic kilometres of magma over a
period of months. The island's heart sank below the sea, leaving a caldera 10km in
diameter. Earthquakes and tsunami reverberated across the Aegean - one full metre
of ash was discovered on Rhodes - Thíra was destroyed, and the great Minoan
civilization on Crete was dealt a severe blow by the ensuing ash fallout and tsunami.
The island's history has become linked with the legend of Atlantis, all because of
Plato. Although he dated the cataclysm to approximately 9500 BC, he was perhaps
inspired by folk memories.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
SANTORÍNI
By plane
The airport is on the east side of the island, near
Monólithos. Buses are not frequent, so make sure you have
arranged a pickup.
Destinations
Athens (both Olympic and Aegean; 3-8 daily;
45min); Crete, Iráklion (Olympic, 1 daily; 30min); Rhodes (4-5
weekly; 45min); Thessaloníki (Aegean 1-2 daily; 1hr 5min).
By ferry
All ferries dock at the port of Athiniós. The old
ports of Skála Firás and Ammoúdhi for Ía in the north are
only used by local excursion boats and cruise ships. The old,
traditional route of 580 steps from Skála up to Firá is a
difficult 45min walk; you can also go by mule (€5) or cable
car (April-Oct daily 6.30am-11pm, every 20min; Nov-
March daily 7.30am-10.30am & 2.30-4.30pm, every
30min; €4, luggage €2 extra).
Destinations
Amorgós (1-3 weekly; 3hr); Anáfi (2-5
weekly; 1hr 20min); Astypálea (1 weekly; 3hr); Chálki (2
