Basics - The Rough Guide to Greece

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Food and drink

Although many visitors get by on

moussaka or kalamári almost every night,

there is a huge range to Greek cuisine, not

least its wonderful mezédhes, seafood

and juicy, fat olives. Despite depressed

wages, most Greeks still eat out with

friends or family at least once a week. The

atmosphere is always relaxed and

informal, with pretensions rare outside of

the more chichi parts of Athens and

certain major resorts. Drinking is tradi-

tionally meant to accompany food,

though a range of bars and clubs exists.

SPECIAL PLACES TO STAY

Imaret, Kavála . Beautifully converted

hammam with pool, massage spa and

original Ottoman features. See p.314

Mount Áthos monasteries Though

currently just for male visitors, staying

with the monks here is an unforgettable

experience. See p.308

Mýlos tou Markétou , Mylos A

sixteenth-century windmill converted

into a stylish apartment. See p.375

Pirgos Mavromichali , Liméni ,

Peloponnese Mani tower house

transformed into a luxury hotel. See p.163

O&B, Athens Boutique hotel with

comfortable rooms and knockout views

of the Acropolis. See p.99

Spirit of the Knights , Rhodes Exquisite

B&B with a lovely courtyard tucked away

in Rhodes old town. See p.520

Breakfast

Greeks don't generally eat breakfast , more often

opting for a mid-morning snack (see below). This is

reflected in the abysmal quality of most hotel “conti-

nental” offerings, where waxy orange squash, stewed

coffee, processed cheese and meats, plus

pre-packaged butter, honey and jam (confusingly

called marmeládha ), are the rule at all but the top

establishments. There might be some fresh fruit,

decent yoghurt and pure honey, if you are lucky. The

only egg-and-bacon kinds of places are in resorts

where foreigners congregate, or where there are

returned North American- or Australian-Greeks. Such

outlets can often be good value (€4-7 for the works,

including coffee), especially if there's competition.

Thessaloníki. This is, however, a far from casual travel

option, involving a fair amount of advance planning

and the securing of a permit.

Camping

Officially recognized campsites range from

ramshackle compounds on the islands to highly

organized and rather soulless complexes, often

dominated by camper vans. Most places cost in the

region of €5-7 a night per person, plus €5-6 per

tent or €6-8 per camper van, though at the fanciest

sites rates for two people plus a tent can almost

equal the price of a basic room. You will need at

least a light sleeping bag, since even summer

nights can get cool and damp. The website of the

o cial Greek camping organization ( W panhellenic

-camping-union.gr) lists all authorized campsites,

with booking for many of them.

Camping outside an o cial campsite (with or

without a tent) is against the law - enforced in

most tourist areas and on beaches. If you do camp

rough, exercise sensitivity and discretion. Police will

crack down on people camping (and especially

littering) if a large community of campers develops.

Off the beaten track nobody is very bothered,

though it is always best to ask permission in the

local taverna or café, and to be aware of rising

crime, even in rural areas. If you want to camp near

a beach, the best strategy is to find a sympathetic

taverna, which in exchange for regular patronage

will probably be willing to guard small valuables

and let you use their facilities.

Picnics and snacks

Picnic ingredients are easily available at supermar-

kets, bakeries and greengrocers; sampling produce

like cheese or olives is acceptable. Standard white

bread is often of minimal nutritional value and

inedible within a day of purchase, although rarer

brown varieties such as olikís (wholemeal), sikalísio

(rye bread) or oktásporo (multi-grain) fare better.

Olives are ubiquitous, with the Kalamáta and Ámfissa

varieties usually surpassing most local picks in quality.

Honey is the ideal topping for the famous local

yoghurt , which is widely available in bulk. Sheep-

milk yoghurt ( próvio ) is richer and sweeter than the

more common cow's-milk. Feta cheese is found

everywhere, often with a dozen varieties to choose

from, made from goat's, sheep's or cow's milk in

varying proportions. Harder graviéra is the second