Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE DOVECOTE TRAIL
Drive up Evangelistrías, turn right and follow the signs to
Tripótamos
where you can visit the
only still functioning clay pot workshop on the island. Nearby
Ktikádhos
is a fine village with
two superb churches and a very good taverna. Heading northwest from the main road
junction beyond Ktikádhos, you can see several beautifully restored
dovecote houses
on the
turn-off to
Tarambádho
- it's worth stopping there and following an hour-long signed path
through the village, to get as close to these dovecotes as possible, as they are the most
photogenic you are likely to encounter.
Driving further north from the Tarambádho turn-off, you can break your trip at
Ystérnia
by
turning off to
Órmos Ysterníon
, a pretty compact beach, and even prettier Skhináki beach at
the far end.
There are a number of eating options en route; here are the best:
Drosia
Ktikádhos
T
22830 21087.
A good, vine-
shaded, sea-view taverna with mains around €8. One
of the few that still offers baked pigeons (
pitsounia
),
the age-old traditional Tínos staple food and the
raison
d'être
of the dovecotes, if booked in advance.
April-Oct
daily noon-midnight.
To Thalassaki
Órmos Ysterníon
T
22830 31366,
6
E
tothalassaki@gmail.com.
Award-winning fish
taverna right on the beach providing exceptional range
and quality of food for something so out of the way.
Most dishes (€13) are marinated in an infusion of herbs
before cooking. Just its extensive ouzo selection is
worth making a detour for.
March-Oct daily
noon-midnight.
The north
A good beginning to a foray into
NORTHERN TÍNOS
is to drive the so-called
Dovecote
Trail
(see box above). The ornate dovecotes are mostly found in the villages off the main
road between
Tínos Town
and
Ystérnia
.
Pýrgos and around
Five daily buses along the Dovecote Trail (see box above) finish up at
PÝRGOS
, a few
kilometres beyond Ystérnia and in the middle of the island's marble-quarrying district,
as can be surmised by the magnificently crafted marble bus stop. The artisans of this
beautiful village are renowned throughout Greece for their skill in producing marble
ornamentation; ornate fanlights and bas-relief plaques fashioned here adorn houses
throughout Tínos. Pýrgos is also home to a School of Fine Arts, and the
museum of
Tiniot artists
(daily 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-7pm) contains numerous representative
works from some of the island's finest pupils. Nearby, the
Yiannoúlis Halepás museum
(same hours; €3 for both) is devoted exclusively to the work of the artist who spent
many years here and is generally recognized as the most important Neoclassical Greek
sculptor. The small cemetery up and left from the main square offers a free showcase of
the villagers' talent over the ages.
The marble products were once exported from
Pánormos
harbour, 4km northeast of
Pýrgos, with its small, shaded
Stafída
beach. The village itself gives access to a number
of good beaches reachable on foot:
Róhari
is to the southeast, facing north with deep
clear waters and massive waves, while
Ayía Thálassa
and
Kaválargos
are much more
sheltered on the northwest side of the bay.
EATING
PÝRGOS AND AROUND
Marina
Pánormos
T
22830 31314.
A seaside ouzerí with
a great ouzo and mezédhes selection; spoilt for choice, you
may want to order a starters platter (€7) but, unless there
are two of you, wait until you've finished before you
venture into a main; the portions are quite large.
May-
Sept daily 10am-midnight.
Myrónia
Pýrgos
T
22830 31229.
The best of the tavernas
and patisseries on the attractive main village square, with
seats around the 150-year-old plane tree. It still serves
baked pigeon with pasta (€8) if you pre-order; but there are
some excellent vealburgers if you want something more
conventional.
Easter-Oct daily noon-midnight.