Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Cyclades
Named from the circle they form around the sacred island of Delos, the
Cyclades (Kykládhes) offer Greece's best island-hopping. Each island has a
strong, distinct character based on traditions, customs, topography and its
historical development. Most are compact enough for a few days'
exploration to show you a major part of their scenery and personality in a
way that is impossible in Crete, Rhodes or most of the Ionian islands.
6
The islands do have some features in common. The majority (Ándhros, Kéa, Náxos and
Tínos excepted) are arid and rocky, and most also share the “Cycladic” style of
brilliant-white cuboid architecture, a feature of which is the central
kástro
of the old
island capitals. The typical kástro has just one or two entrances, and a continuous outer
ring of houses with all their doors and windows on the inner side, so forming a single
protective perimeter wall.
The impact of mass tourism has been felt more severely in the Cyclades than anywhere
else in Greece; yet whatever the level of tourist development, there are only three islands
where it completely dominates their character in season:
Íos
, the original hippie island
and still a paradise for hard-drinking backpackers, the volcanic cluster of
Santoríni
- a
dramatic natural backdrop for luxury cruise liners - and
Mýkonos
, by far the most
popular of the group, with its teeming old town, selection of gay, nudist and gay-nudist
beaches, and sophisticated restaurants, clubs and hotels. After these,
Páros
,
Náxos
and
Mílos
are the most popular, their beaches and main towns packed at the height of the
season. The once-tranquil
Lesser Cyclades
southeast of Náxos have become fashionable
destinations in recent years, as have nearby
Amorgós
, and
Folégandhros
to the west. To
avoid the hordes altogether the most promising islands are
Kýthnos
or
Sérifos
and
for an
even more remote experience
Síkinos
,
Kímolos
or
Anáfi.
. For a completely different
picture of the Cyclades, try the islands of
Tínos
with its imposing pilgrimage church and
Sýros
with its elegant Italianate townscape, both with a substantial Catholic minority.
Due to their proximity to Attica,
Ándhros
and
Kéa
are predictably popular weekend
havens for Athenian families, while
Sífnos
remains a smart, chic destination for tourists
of all nationalities. The one UNESCO site,
Delos
- once a great religious centre for the
Cyclades - is certainly worth making time for, visited most easily on a day-trip from
Mýkonos. One consideration for the timing of your visit is that the Cyclades is the
group worst affected by the
meltémi
, which scatters sand and tablecloths with ease
between mid-July and mid-August. Delayed or cancelled ferries are not uncommon, so
if you're heading back to Athens to catch a flight, leave yourself a day's leeway.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
THE CYCLADES
flight at less than three days' notice, and tickets are
predictably expensive. Expect off-season (Nov-April)
frequencies to drop by at least eighty percent.
BY PLANE
There are airports on Páros, Mýkonos, Santoríni, Sýros,
Mílos and Náxos. In season, or during storms when ferries
are idle, you have little chance of getting a seat on any
A brief history
p.357
Ancient Karthaia
p.359
The Monastery of Khryssopiyí
p.370
Mílos boat tour
p.373
Panayía Panakhrándou
p.383
The Dovecote Trail
p.387
Old Delos Days
p.396
Náxos Music Festival
p.412
Climbing Mount Zas
p.417
Homer's tomb
p.428
The wineries
p.440
